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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all!

It’s been awhile since I’ve last posted, I mainly been consolidating ideas for my build and sourcing the parts and people necessary. I’m settled on finalizing the build with a basic stage 1 water methanol setup from Snow Performance. My goal is to have a single port spray into a 63mm tb spacer and I plan on tapping the washer fluid tank for said setup.

Seems pretty straightforward, however I still have a ton of questions and going off of what I’ve read here on the forums it seems like a lot of you guys know waaay more about water/meth on this platform than I do so if y’all could answer these for me I’d be eternally grateful.

1. With my stage 1 WMI kit, I’d like to route the on/off switch and other accompanying electronics into the cabin as easily as possible while keeping it discreet. Would anyone have any ideas and/or pictures as to where I can put everything?

2. With this being my first time doing a water/meth setup, I’d like to go for a simple custom tune that focuses on pulling a fraction of the power from the water/meth. I’m mainly looking for this setup to clean the valves & cool the charged air coming in while SAFELY raking out as much power as I can. I know our tuning vendors on this site do an awesome job, however is there anything specific I should request in order to get a tune that can do that?

3. How complex is the electrical wiring for one of these stage 1 setups?

4. Would a 250cc nozzle be too small for this application? I’m still on the stock ko3, and if it is too small then what size should I use?

5. Should I still run another failsafe like GA (Guardian Angel)?

6. If this is too many questions to answer at he moment, is there a local sticky or another post in which my questions can be answered?


Sent from The Mystery Machine
 

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Hello all!

It’s been awhile since I’ve last posted, I mainly been consolidating ideas for my build and sourcing the parts and people necessary. I’m settled on finalizing the build with a basic stage 1 water methanol setup from Snow Performance. My goal is to have a single port spray into a 63mm tb spacer and I plan on tapping the washer fluid tank for said setup.

Seems pretty straightforward, however I still have a ton of questions and going off of what I’ve read here on the forums it seems like a lot of you guys know waaay more about water/meth on this platform than I do so if y’all could answer these for me I’d be eternally grateful.

1. With my stage 1 WMI kit, I’d like to route the on/off switch and other accompanying electronics into the cabin as easily as possible while keeping it discreet. Would anyone have any ideas and/or pictures as to where I can put everything?

2. With this being my first time doing a water/meth setup, I’d like to go for a simple custom tune that focuses on pulling a fraction of the power from the water/meth. I’m mainly looking for this setup to clean the valves & cool the charged air coming in while SAFELY raking out as much power as I can. I know our tuning vendors on this site do an awesome job, however is there anything specific I should request in order to get a tune that can do that?

3. How complex is the electrical wiring for one of these stage 1 setups?

4. Would a 250cc nozzle be too small for this application? I’m still on the stock ko3, and if it is too small then what size should I use?

5. Should I still run another failsafe like GA (Guardian Angel)?

6. If this is too many questions to answer at he moment, is there a local sticky or another post in which my questions can be answered?


Sent from The Mystery Machine
 

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1. With my stage 1 WMI kit, I’d like to route the on/off switch and other accompanying electronics into the cabin as easily as possible while keeping it discreet. Would anyone have any ideas and/or pictures as to where I can put everything?

2. With this being my first time doing a water/meth setup, I’d like to go for a simple custom tune that focuses on pulling a fraction of the power from the water/meth. I’m mainly looking for this setup to clean the valves & cool the charged air coming in while SAFELY raking out as much power as I can. I know our tuning vendors on this site do an awesome job, however is there anything specific I should request in order to get a tune that can do that?

3. How complex is the electrical wiring for one of these stage 1 setups?

4. Would a 250cc nozzle be too small for this application? I’m still on the stock ko3, and if it is too small then what size should I use?

5. Should I still run another failsafe like GA (Guardian Angel)?

6. If this is too many questions to answer at he moment, is there a local sticky or another post in which my questions can be answered?
1) yes I did this, the yellow main lead wire that runs the whole system, T it off on a switch after the fuse and run the switch into the cab. I ran it right under the E-brake to keep it "hidden". Pretty easy and straight forward and gives me the ability to kill the system if I run out of meth.

2) I don't tune for it. I keep mine on and spraying under 12PSI of boost to clean valves and to keep corrections in check. happy tuning and best of luck if you go that route. if you do you need to detune when you use the kill switch from #1

3) if you have ever done car wiring it is pretty straight forward. if you have not then well it might be a bit much for the avg bear. you can go download the install sheet from Snows website, review it and see what you think

4) I am running the smallest nozzle that came with the Snow stage 1

5) if you tune... HIGHLY recommend it

6) start reading threads and watching videos. mine is a pretty simple and standard setup. I am happy to direct you and take pictures as needed/requested

oh and with the Snow stage 1 you will need to add a Solenoid to the kit. NOT sure why the kit doesn't come with it, but if you don't set it up right you will drain the tank. so to be safe just get a solenoid.
 

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1) yes I did this, the yellow main lead wire that runs the whole system, T it off on a switch after the fuse and run the switch into the cab. I ran it right under the E-brake to keep it "hidden". Pretty easy and straight forward and gives me the ability to kill the system if I run out of meth.

2) I don't tune for it. I keep mine on and spraying under 12PSI of boost to clean valves and to keep corrections in check. happy tuning and best of luck if you go that route. if you do you need to detune when you use the kill switch from #1

3) if you have ever done car wiring it is pretty straight forward. if you have not then well it might be a bit much for the avg bear. you can go download the install sheet from Snows website, review it and see what you think

4) I am running the smallest nozzle that came with the Snow stage 1

5) if you tune... HIGHLY recommend it

6) start reading threads and watching videos. mine is a pretty simple and standard setup. I am happy to direct you and take pictures as needed/requested

oh and with the Snow stage 1 you will need to add a Solenoid to the kit. NOT sure why the kit doesn't come with it, but if you don't set it up right you will drain the tank. so to be safe just get a solenoid.
Snows site has been down for a week I’m doing a diy kit and was using their parts..... just a heads up
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hello all!

It’s been awhile since I’ve last posted, I mainly been consolidating ideas for my build and sourcing the parts and people necessary. I’m settled on finalizing the build with a basic stage 1 water methanol setup from Snow Performance. My goal is to have a single port spray into a 63mm tb spacer and I plan on tapping the washer fluid tank for said setup.

Seems pretty straightforward, however I still have a ton of questions and going off of what I’ve read here on the forums it seems like a lot of you guys know waaay more about water/meth on this platform than I do so if y’all could answer these for me I’d be eternally grateful.

1. With my stage 1 WMI kit, I’d like to route the on/off switch and other accompanying electronics into the cabin as easily as possible while keeping it discreet. Would anyone have any ideas and/or pictures as to where I can put everything?

2. With this being my first time doing a water/meth setup, I’d like to go for a simple custom tune that focuses on pulling a fraction of the power from the water/meth. I’m mainly looking for this setup to clean the valves & cool the charged air coming in while SAFELY raking out as much power as I can. I know our tuning vendors on this site do an awesome job, however is there anything specific I should request in order to get a tune that can do that?

3. How complex is the electrical wiring for one of these stage 1 setups?

4. Would a 250cc nozzle be too small for this application? I’m still on the stock ko3, and if it is too small then what size should I use?

5. Should I still run another failsafe like GA (Guardian Angel)?

6. If this is too many questions to answer at he moment, is there a local sticky or another post in which my questions can be answered?


Sent from The Mystery Machine
Lots of great replies so far w/ a lot of info! I’ve been keepin track of it all, I’m just currently at work lol. I was hoping that this wasn’t too many questions to be answered but it seems like that’s not the case so I’m grateful for that :)


Sent from The Mystery Machine
 

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Discussion Starter #8
1) yes I did this, the yellow main lead wire that runs the whole system, T it off on a switch after the fuse and run the switch into the cab. I ran it right under the E-brake to keep it "hidden". Pretty easy and straight forward and gives me the ability to kill the system if I run out of meth.

2) I don't tune for it. I keep mine on and spraying under 12PSI of boost to clean valves and to keep corrections in check. happy tuning and best of luck if you go that route. if you do you need to detune when you use the kill switch from #1

3) if you have ever done car wiring it is pretty straight forward. if you have not then well it might be a bit much for the avg bear. you can go download the install sheet from Snows website, review it and see what you think

4) I am running the smallest nozzle that came with the Snow stage 1

5) if you tune... HIGHLY recommend it

6) start reading threads and watching videos. mine is a pretty simple and standard setup. I am happy to direct you and take pictures as needed/requested

oh and with the Snow stage 1 you will need to add a Solenoid to the kit. NOT sure why the kit doesn't come with it, but if you don't set it up right you will drain the tank. so to be safe just get a solenoid.
Sounds good, now with your setup being untuned; have you noticed anything noteworthy over stage 3 as far as butt dyno? Or just a dyno in general? I just loaded Cobbs OTS stage 3 a few days ago and it was a night & day difference. I know if w/m isn’t tuned then it’s mainly just a cleaner & CAT cooler, but was there any extra hp gained in your case?


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Sounds good, now with your setup being untuned; have you noticed anything noteworthy over stage 3 as far as butt dyno? Or just a dyno in general? I just loaded Cobbs OTS stage 3 a few days ago and it was a night & day difference. I know if w/m isn’t tuned then it’s mainly just a cleaner & CAT cooler, but was there any extra hp gained in your case?


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No gains...
 

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what do you tap into to spray at certain boost pressures?


Depends on the system you're using. Snow stage 1 kit uses a pressure switch. You tap into symposer delete or a map tap. If you get I believe it's the stage 2.5 it's a progressive controller. When you can tap into a map sensor or fuel injector duty cycle. so as you build more boost or dump more fuel if adds more meth.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Depends on the system you're using. Snow stage 1 kit uses a pressure switch. You tap into symposer delete or a map tap. If you get I believe it's the stage 2.5 it's a progressive controller. When you can tap into a map sensor or fuel injector duty cycle. so as you build more boost or dump more fuel if adds more meth.
If you had to choose between tuners, which one would you pick? I’m personally stuck between getting a custom map from Torrie or just getting a new stage 3 re-map with water/meth from Stratified


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Understandable, still does a heck of a job keeping the head sqeaky clean


Sent from The Mystery Machine


Custom tune is always going to be better. Personally I wouldn't tune for meth. I just use it for cooling and cleaning. Get the most out of the stage3 tune and I can. Until I go big Turbo and need to tune for extra fuel.
 

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Understandable, still does a heck of a job keeping the head sqeaky clean
Sent from The Mystery Machine
Meh barely... results are to be desired. @SIstomper would agree that it helps but to keep them clean, mostly only on the front side. if they don't start clean then they wont get them clean, from my experience, I had to clean them and now that they are clean it is keeping them clean. build up on the back side is the problem that manual cleaning is only going to prevent. I will be pulling my manifold in another 10k to see for sure but as of right now that is my thoughts on it

Custom tune is always going to be better. Personally I wouldn't tune for meth. I just use it for cooling and cleaning. Get the most out of the stage3 tune and I can. Until I go big Turbo and need to tune for extra fuel.
and at the point of extra fuel AUX fueling the the method you plan to go with? I am with you, I don't prefer meth for extra fuel nor do I recommend tuning for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Custom tune is always going to be better. Personally I wouldn't tune for meth. I just use it for cooling and cleaning. Get the most out of the stage3 tune and I can. Until I go big Turbo and need to tune for extra fuel.
Okay sounds good, I was thinking of having it spray when the turbo hits a certain PSI. Maybe like 10 or 8, the Cobb OTS stage 3 is pretty robust as is but I feel like after awhile it’s gonna cause some issues. Correct me if I’m wrong


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Okay sounds good, I was thinking of having it spray when the turbo hits a certain PSI. Maybe like 10 or 8, the Cobb OTS stage 3 is pretty robust as is but I feel like after awhile it’s gonna cause some issues. Correct me if I’m wrong


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10 is to low in my opinion. I run mine at 14 PSI. I feel like any lower and it bogs the motor. I spent a lot of time adjusting mine. you can always do the same and get a feeling for it.

The stage 3 COBB is ok (wouldn't consider it robust. Maybe a startup tune) but a custom tune is night and day and way safer for the car
 

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I've vacillated on buying mine. I wanted to go with the Aqua-Mist unit because their controls look top notch but I'm hesitant because I've just not seen anyone else successfully install it. Also.... it is >$800 and sold from Europe. If there are issues I'd hate to fight that battle.

My second thought was to go simple and just run injection off boost. I was going with The Devil's Own kit. I like their kit and comes with the solenoid for $365 total. I've not pulled the trigger just because I have so many other things going on at the moment. I might wait for a Black Friday Sale at this point.... because I'm cheap and in no hurry.


Oh.... I thought about this too. When I put on the big turbo I was going to upgrade the base kit by using a second injector staged to come on at higher boost. All you would need is another pressure switch (set to come on at higher PSI), a tee to the second injector that is operated on the high pressure side of the same pump and I'd toggle the second stage with a solenoid turned on/off by the second pressure switch. I also considered just programming a microcontroller (I'm a geek) but that is more time than I probably want to throw at it.

The microcontroller could be fun though. It would allow you to dial whatever behavior you wanted and I could even show a status/display to my phone via Bluetooth. I'm totally turned off by any of the solutions that plumb an aftermarket gauge to be mounted on my dash.
 
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