Ford Focus ST Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
475 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've searched and I can't find the answer. Which sensors do you monitor for knock intensity and how high is to high? I have the knock sensor 1 and 2 set, and the highest I've seen them are up towards 600 on a pull. I'm not sure if I'm looking at the right monitors, so any info would be great. I'm getting very little neg correction (-1.00 is the most) and just a couple of knocks here and there. Just trying to learn a little about it. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
475 Posts
Discussion Starter #3

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,144 Posts
@CaliJoe

Also, knock count is still just a count, and by it self doesn't tell a whole lot other than the sensor is hearing # amount of knocks, and not real time as to what is going on, but a count of how many knocks there are/were. What you want to watch/monitor is Ignition Correction for cylinder 1-4 because that is real time what the engine is adding or pulling timing wise during a WOT pull.

I asked about this a while back and that was the consensus from the pros. I'm not saying to ignore knock count, I just wanted to add that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
475 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
@CaliJoe

Also, knock count is still just a count, and by it self doesn't tell a whole lot other than the sensor is hearing # amount of knocks, and not real time as to what is going on, but a count of how many knocks there are/were. What you want to watch/monitor is Ignition Correction for cylinder 1-4 because that is real time what the engine is adding or pulling timing wise during a WOT pull.

I asked about this a while back and that was the consensus from the pros. I'm not saying to ignore knock count, I just wanted to add that.
Cool that clears up a lot thanks! So what is the max neg. - correction you don't want to see, -1, -2, 3-, where do you have to start worrying about to much -? OAR never moves from -1.00

Thanks for the info guy's :big smile:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,144 Posts
Cool that clears up a lot thanks! So what is the max neg. - correction you don't want to see, -1, -2, 3-, where do you have to start worrying about to much -? OAR never moves from -1.00

Thanks for the info guy's :big smile:
If it goes negative and stays negative, and doesn't start to go back up, I have heard of people getting -8 and what not when there is something wrong. Not certain of exact values. I only ever saw a few degrees negative corrections.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
475 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
If it goes negative and stays negative, and doesn't start to go back up, I have heard of people getting -8 and what not when there is something wrong. Not certain of exact values. I only ever saw a few degrees negative corrections.
With the tune I'm running now I haven't seen any neg corrections of more than -1 and thats usually just on one cylinder only, the others are usually less and they don't all do it the same, one cylinder might be -1.00 another -0.58 and another at 0.00. They all do it randomly it not -1 on the same cylinder all the time, it kind of bounces from cylinder to cylinder which is probably ok and normal.

I have to get a tune revision from Stratified now that I'm running 93 oct fuel.

My custom tune from another tuner just hasn't worked out, I won't go into details. Live and learn :disappointed:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,144 Posts
sounds like a good tune then tbh
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Cool that clears up a lot thanks! So what is the max neg. - correction you don't want to see, -1, -2, 3-, where do you have to start worrying about to much -? OAR never moves from -1.00

Thanks for the info guy's :big smile:
Whats if you get the most ignition correction at -3.38 and ur oar stay the say the same only saw this one time ..5 gear at low rmp trying to beat a light!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,795 Posts
Whats if you get the most ignition correction at -3.38 and ur oar stay the say the same only saw this one time ..5 gear at low rmp trying to beat a light!

you don't want to floor it in 5th or 6th gear or you'll be replacing your engine. You should only be flooring it in 3rd and 4th around 2500 rpm. First and second are usually just a smoke show. I've done a hundred and ten miles per hour and 4th gear so there's no reason to have to floor it in 5th. Do yourself a favor and read up on LSPI.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,052 Posts
What @G heinrich said is correct. The reason for not boosting it in 5th or 6th at low rpms is your putting a LOT of load on the motor which really stresses the Rods. The reason your seeing the -3.38 ignition correction is at the high load, low rpm your causing knock. Its best to stay out of boost in 5th or 6th until your up above 3500 to 4k. Thats what I do, and everyone does differnt ****. You wanna gun it thru a light or pass drop it into 4th. That being said, unless your BT, theres also no real reason to go running each gear out to 6500rpm because the stock snail runs out of steam at 5500rpm. So essentially you keeping it in 3 or 4 or 2 past 55 or 5700rpm really your losing power, not making it. Until you go BT if you want to be faster, stay in the powerband which is where your car carries power development at and then stops. Alot of people don't seem to realize this, coz I see FoST owners typing about taking their cars to almost 7k rpm and they are no more then "stage 3" bolt ons, theres no real reason for it if thats the case. Your just causing wear and stress to your motor that isn't necessary, but to each their own. This ignition correction your seeing, is this just one cylinder or do you get that similar correction in all cylinders? Just curious as it could be the difference between needing a set of spark plugs, or having a more serious issue in just one cylinder.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top