A Practical Enthusiast's Build
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This one sticks out much further, making it flush with the corner "hockey sticks." It's the only 'lip' I like for this car.
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692 Posts
Well then, it's been a very busy week or so leading up to Carlisle. I've had quite a few things in the works for some time and over the last week I've finally had time to take care of most of it (still one large thing purposely omitted here but you'll have to wait just a bit longer for that one).
First up: Dual Damond OCC Setup with the VTA option.
I've been debating on this for quite a while. I was running the Moroso PCV side OCC for a long time and it's been doing its job quite well. However, ever since the install, I've had an oily vapor smell when I have the air non-recirculating. A few times I thought I had chased it down, but the issue kept coming back. On top of that, now that I'm running the GTX2867 turbo, I am emptying the Moroso OCC every 1k miles and it's 2/3 full. I also felt that a VTA option would be beneficial to reduce the excess crankcase pressure now that I'm running the larger turbo. So I'd been considering purchasing the Damond dual OCC setup with the VTA option but just couldn't pull the trigger until recently. My hope was that the Damond OCCs would help reduce the oily vapor smell due to the mostly sealed can design. I also liked how the cans are relatively large which is helpful.
I received the OCC setup in a very nicely packaged box with everything in baggies labeled and all.
![Wire Technology Auto part Electronic device Electrical wiring]()
There were no instructions included in the box which wasn't an issue for the PCV side (there are instructions on the Damond website for this one) but for the VTA side, there are zero instructions. I wasn't sure if it installed just like every other intake side OCC, or if there was another setup that was needed (as there are a bunch of extra fittings included in the kit). It also wasn't 100% clear where to mount the can, however thanks to some threads here on these forums, I was able to identify exactly where.
![Auto part Engine Vehicle Automotive engine part Fuel line]()
During install I, of course, had to check out my valves to see how clean they were after 42k miles (20k of which include the Moroso OCC). Everything looks good:
Cyl 1
![Auto part Fuel line Engine Vehicle Automotive engine part]()
Cyl 2
![Vehicle Bumper Car Auto part Automotive exterior]()
Cyl 3
![Bumper Auto part Automotive exterior Vehicle Metal]()
Cyl 4
![Bumper Auto part Automotive exterior Vehicle Car]()
What I found was a little surprising. The oily vapor smell wasn't coming from my Moroso OCC. It was coming from the line connected to the back of the intake manifold. The connection was poor and it was allowing a very minute amount of vapor to seep out. Thanks to a good friend I already had a replacement OEM line, which I installed and now have zero oily smell, even with the VTA option (which makes sense when you realize that the VTA is a one way VTA that only vents, under boost, the excess amount of pressure that the vacuum created in the intake can't pull from the crankcase) So far I really like this setup. I haven't needed to empty it yet (as it's been on for less than a week), however I really like the design. There are drain hoses included
which I routed down under the car. All I'll have to do is turn the valve, and unkink and un-ziptie the drain hose and let it drain out into a pan or bottle. I won't need to remove the can ever.
First up: Dual Damond OCC Setup with the VTA option.
I've been debating on this for quite a while. I was running the Moroso PCV side OCC for a long time and it's been doing its job quite well. However, ever since the install, I've had an oily vapor smell when I have the air non-recirculating. A few times I thought I had chased it down, but the issue kept coming back. On top of that, now that I'm running the GTX2867 turbo, I am emptying the Moroso OCC every 1k miles and it's 2/3 full. I also felt that a VTA option would be beneficial to reduce the excess crankcase pressure now that I'm running the larger turbo. So I'd been considering purchasing the Damond dual OCC setup with the VTA option but just couldn't pull the trigger until recently. My hope was that the Damond OCCs would help reduce the oily vapor smell due to the mostly sealed can design. I also liked how the cans are relatively large which is helpful.
I received the OCC setup in a very nicely packaged box with everything in baggies labeled and all.
There were no instructions included in the box which wasn't an issue for the PCV side (there are instructions on the Damond website for this one) but for the VTA side, there are zero instructions. I wasn't sure if it installed just like every other intake side OCC, or if there was another setup that was needed (as there are a bunch of extra fittings included in the kit). It also wasn't 100% clear where to mount the can, however thanks to some threads here on these forums, I was able to identify exactly where.
During install I, of course, had to check out my valves to see how clean they were after 42k miles (20k of which include the Moroso OCC). Everything looks good:
Cyl 1
Cyl 2
Cyl 3
Cyl 4
What I found was a little surprising. The oily vapor smell wasn't coming from my Moroso OCC. It was coming from the line connected to the back of the intake manifold. The connection was poor and it was allowing a very minute amount of vapor to seep out. Thanks to a good friend I already had a replacement OEM line, which I installed and now have zero oily smell, even with the VTA option (which makes sense when you realize that the VTA is a one way VTA that only vents, under boost, the excess amount of pressure that the vacuum created in the intake can't pull from the crankcase) So far I really like this setup. I haven't needed to empty it yet (as it's been on for less than a week), however I really like the design. There are drain hoses included
which I routed down under the car. All I'll have to do is turn the valve, and unkink and un-ziptie the drain hose and let it drain out into a pan or bottle. I won't need to remove the can ever.
Joined
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692 Posts
Next up is the all new suspension setup:
Prototype Focus ST Coilovers and Front End Links from @MFactory and DIY Rear End Links.
As I hinted at a while back, I am one of two to prototype the MFactory coilovers for the Focus ST. My buddy @[email protected] and I spent all day Saturday prepping and installing the suspension. I was honestly a little nervous for a few reasons. One, the Bilstien B8 and Eibach Pro Kit Springs was a fantastic setup. I'm not the only one who would agree that it's the best setup if you aren't getting coilovers. Moving away from that setup, I had high hopes. Second, as these are prototypes there is always the chance that they may not work right out of the box, and suspension is an area that I'm admittedly less knowledgeable in.
First things first, the strut towers. In order to be able to adjust the settings without dropping the front struts, we decided to drill out the front struts. Using a 3" metal hole saw and the TB Performance products plate as a guide (the whole is exactly 3" which held the drill bit in place), we were able to cleanly drill out the strut towers. This took time as the drills will overheat and need to cool down. Once done, we painted over the bare metal with black automotive touchup paint to keep it from rusting. (quick tip, if you do this, make sure you cover the car, the brake rotors, and engine bay with a cloth. We used an old sheet. There are a lot of metal shavings you don't want floating around on your paint, in your engine or brakes.)
Before:
![Auto part Wheel Automotive wheel system Brake Tire]()
After:
![Yellow Hand Finger Circle Thumb]()
![Auto part Machine Wheel Metal]()
After Installation:
![Auto part Engine]()
The rest of the suspension went in without too many tweaks, which was quite nice. There are a few minor adjustments that we recommended to MFactory, and they will subsequently be taken care of. Here are a few installed pics:
![Coil spring Suspension part Auto part Suspension Tire]()
![Suspension part Suspension Auto part Tire Automotive tire]()
Now, I've been using the Massive Front and Rear end links. The fronts were replaced with end links that MFactory included in with the coilsovers, specifically designed with the coilovers. The rears I ended up replacing with a DIY option. We found these on this forum (can't remember where). They are adjustable, and are short enough to work with lower setups where the MFactory rears are a little lower and stronger than OEM for sure, however don't quite go low enough.
![Auto part Bumper Automotive exterior Exhaust system Automotive wheel system]()
Initial impressions are extremely impressive. It's quite easy to adjust the rear dampers after using the included extensions that simply stick through the carpet in the hatch. Just pop the hatch, turn the dials, and you're done. There is a distinct "click" letting you know it's been adjusted. The front is also easy to adjust after drilling through the front strut tower. Just pop the hood and again, turn the dial. It "clicks" just the same as the rear. The difference between each "click" is noticeable but it's not a huge difference. It's the perfect amount of difference between each "click". There are a total of 7 settings. We initially had it set on 3 from soft and for daily driving, I ended up dropping it one click for daily driving. For Autox or track, 3 or 4 from soft will be perfect. The ride height is easily adjustable using the included wrenches. For the front, just pop off the wheels, unlock the collar and, after making sure the pre-load adjustment ring is secured in place, use the wrench to compress the shock body. The adjustments are quite fine, which is actually really nice. It took 6 full rotations of the shock body to drop the car 1/8". This allows for quite fine height adjustments, which I like. For the rear, it does require you to drop the spring, but once the single 15mm bolt is removed, the collar can be rotated (after loosening it) by hand. I re-adjusted the height of all 4 corners in about an hour on Sunday. Not terrible.
The ride quality is phenomenal. It feels like a sports car, yet very composed and mature. I'm sure it may be a little rough for people who simply want something sporty yet casual but for me it's perfect. I've got ZERO knocks or squeaks or odd sounds. Overall, quite impressed. The quality of the components is second to none. So far, I highly recommend this setup.
(pictures of overall ride height etc to come)
Prototype Focus ST Coilovers and Front End Links from @MFactory and DIY Rear End Links.
As I hinted at a while back, I am one of two to prototype the MFactory coilovers for the Focus ST. My buddy @[email protected] and I spent all day Saturday prepping and installing the suspension. I was honestly a little nervous for a few reasons. One, the Bilstien B8 and Eibach Pro Kit Springs was a fantastic setup. I'm not the only one who would agree that it's the best setup if you aren't getting coilovers. Moving away from that setup, I had high hopes. Second, as these are prototypes there is always the chance that they may not work right out of the box, and suspension is an area that I'm admittedly less knowledgeable in.
First things first, the strut towers. In order to be able to adjust the settings without dropping the front struts, we decided to drill out the front struts. Using a 3" metal hole saw and the TB Performance products plate as a guide (the whole is exactly 3" which held the drill bit in place), we were able to cleanly drill out the strut towers. This took time as the drills will overheat and need to cool down. Once done, we painted over the bare metal with black automotive touchup paint to keep it from rusting. (quick tip, if you do this, make sure you cover the car, the brake rotors, and engine bay with a cloth. We used an old sheet. There are a lot of metal shavings you don't want floating around on your paint, in your engine or brakes.)
Before:
After:
After Installation:
The rest of the suspension went in without too many tweaks, which was quite nice. There are a few minor adjustments that we recommended to MFactory, and they will subsequently be taken care of. Here are a few installed pics:
Now, I've been using the Massive Front and Rear end links. The fronts were replaced with end links that MFactory included in with the coilsovers, specifically designed with the coilovers. The rears I ended up replacing with a DIY option. We found these on this forum (can't remember where). They are adjustable, and are short enough to work with lower setups where the MFactory rears are a little lower and stronger than OEM for sure, however don't quite go low enough.
Initial impressions are extremely impressive. It's quite easy to adjust the rear dampers after using the included extensions that simply stick through the carpet in the hatch. Just pop the hatch, turn the dials, and you're done. There is a distinct "click" letting you know it's been adjusted. The front is also easy to adjust after drilling through the front strut tower. Just pop the hood and again, turn the dial. It "clicks" just the same as the rear. The difference between each "click" is noticeable but it's not a huge difference. It's the perfect amount of difference between each "click". There are a total of 7 settings. We initially had it set on 3 from soft and for daily driving, I ended up dropping it one click for daily driving. For Autox or track, 3 or 4 from soft will be perfect. The ride height is easily adjustable using the included wrenches. For the front, just pop off the wheels, unlock the collar and, after making sure the pre-load adjustment ring is secured in place, use the wrench to compress the shock body. The adjustments are quite fine, which is actually really nice. It took 6 full rotations of the shock body to drop the car 1/8". This allows for quite fine height adjustments, which I like. For the rear, it does require you to drop the spring, but once the single 15mm bolt is removed, the collar can be rotated (after loosening it) by hand. I re-adjusted the height of all 4 corners in about an hour on Sunday. Not terrible.
The ride quality is phenomenal. It feels like a sports car, yet very composed and mature. I'm sure it may be a little rough for people who simply want something sporty yet casual but for me it's perfect. I've got ZERO knocks or squeaks or odd sounds. Overall, quite impressed. The quality of the components is second to none. So far, I highly recommend this setup.
(pictures of overall ride height etc to come)
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770 Posts
For those interested in going the top hat cutout. I wrote up a quick How-To after we did Jons Saturday and mine Sunday.
Strut Tower Cutout for Camber Adjustment DIY ? SITH Racing
Strut Tower Cutout for Camber Adjustment DIY ? SITH Racing
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770 Posts
You don't need the cutout. Without it though, you'll have to drop the struts to make camber adjustment. This is the case for ANY camber plate top hats that come on coilovers. The only plates that you wouldn't would be the ones by ground control, but they are designed for the OEM springs/struts.
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692 Posts
Cutting out the top of the strut tower is not technically necessary for any coilovers, MFactorys included. It allows one to reach all the adjustments from the top without removing the strut. All coilovers currently are designed this way so it's something they won't/can't change. It's a nice to have and easy to do, so we did it.
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770 Posts
It really isn't that hard of a task to do. Just seems daunting as you're cutting into the frame, but all your doing is removing some excess metal.
Once it's setup you shouldn't need to adjust it except for at new alignments. Depending on how you drive that could be quite often. I autocross a couple times a month so I get an alignment every couple months. This could also be used for quick camber changes at the track if you have the angles pre marked.
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692 Posts
Surprisingly no. I thought it might but it doesn't. And I've been hooning through corners on this setup as well. The springs are a bit stiffer (5k front 5.5k) rear which helps
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692 Posts
If anyone is on the fence, I can say without a doubt you won't be disappointed. These are fantastic. After riding in my car, @[email protected] will be changing from his KWs to these coilovers for good.Production on the 2nd batch will be starting very shortly. If you're interested in a set at the special pre-order price, PM me asap
If you have questions please feel free to ask me
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692 Posts
Hah, Red is a nickname that was given to me back when I was heavily involved in the mustang club. I drove a Race Red '11 5.0 and my name is quite similar to a whiskey....I like how @Red is yellow
But I have to say the hints of blue on your build are very tasteful... that thing looks awesome.
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