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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone found any better 8” subs lately that will fit In the stock enclosure that sounds better than stock. Yeah I’ve read the other discussions where it mentions the RF P3s and the kicker comp crt just want to see if there’s more options now? Louder and crisper bass than the stock Sony subs what are others out there that you guys have tried?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
And yes I plan on powering it with an aftermarket amp as well with the Lc2i I do not plan on powering the replacement sub on just the factory Sony amp alone.
 

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No there are no new products available that will address the basic problem that the stock sub enclosure is too small.

Best bang for the buck is a 100W SAS Bazooka bass tube. Removing the stock enclosure an 8" tube only sticks out an inch and half more.

I tested a passive tube that was single channel on one channel of the sub outputs from the Sony amp. Cranked up the stock system outran the sub but it was miles better than the stock sub as it provided the whole system the foundation it never had.

They will play much lower than the stock sub even with 25w and it's actually a little less than that, I heard about 22ww per channel.

100 Watt Tube will not outrun the stock system and you can add the adjustable output knob which will help you keep the system balanced regardless of what song your playing.

An amplified tube and bass knob would be cheaper than a seperate sub, amp and mediocre sound using the stock box.
 

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Subwoofer SQ is complicated but output is not. The box size has such a profound effect that just swapping different transducers in place of the stock one is almost always a waste of time. Probably the easiest way of gaining output is as suggested, buy a larger sub with a resonant enclosure.
 

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In my personal experience, the stock (Sony) sub when fitted with the Rockford Fosgate driver and stuffed with Polyfil and powered with a good amp, can sound very good. Not terrific low end extension of course (because as stated, the enclosure is just too small for that), but tight, punchy and musical. Plus of course it looks "stock" and takes up minimal space in the hatch.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the input guys. I will probably just have to see for myself what it will sound like keeping the factory enclosure and swapping it out with a different 8” sub and powering that from another amp. I want to keep it looking OEM In the back minus the sub, plus I don’t want to take up anymore space.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the input guys. I will probably just have to see for myself what it will sound like keeping the factory enclosure and swapping it out with a different 8” sub and powering that from another amp. I want to keep it looking OEM In the back minus the sub, plus I don’t want to take up anymore space. Worst case, I can use the sub and amp in a different vehicle if I don’t like how it sounds. You would think you would expect some sort of improvement in loudness granted you are powering a different sub with way more power than the factory Sony amp? I’ll have to hear for myself I guess.
 

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My experience with subs goes back 20+ years. I've had small boxes, small box subs, etc, etc. The SAS tubes presents the best value and ease of install.

You can use a passive dual voice coil tube or a amplified tube. A 50W tube is likely no louder than using a passive tube on the stock Sony amp. Using a 100W is a better choice because it doubles the output while using a more efficient enclosure.
 

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Are you installing an LC2i or anything? Just asking because I’m looking into doing a setup as well in mine just want a cleaner sound with a bit more bass. I also have the Sony package with stock amp unfortunately. Thinking of adding an LC2i, small amp (Skar possibly) with a shallow mount 8” (Skar sub) with stock box if it fits if not upgrade to a 10” with semi small box. Any suggestions
 

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Are you installing an LC2i or anything? Just asking because I’m looking into doing a setup as well in mine just want a cleaner sound with a bit more bass. I also have the Sony package with stock amp unfortunately. Thinking of adding an LC2i, small amp (Skar possibly) with a shallow mount 8” (Skar sub) with stock box if it fits if not upgrade to a 10” with semi small box. Any suggestions
Shallow mount subs still need a spacer ring and the specs for almost any 3rd party speaker will mean the OE box is going to be TOO SMALL.

In my experience EQ and lots of power don't solve the fundamental issues of using an enclosure that's too small.

Get a SAS Bazooka Bass Tube. Man, I don't understand the reluctance to use these. Why buy two extra boxes to do the work of one?

A 100W Tube is just loud enough not to totally outrun the stock system, yet is loud enough to be heard over road noise with the windows down. It will get down and dirty; it functions best with popular music though it sounds good with everything.

The natural bass boost from the ported enclosure is the best thing for low power systems anyway.

Get the bass knob for it because some adjustment is better than none.

I'm always shocked how loud these things play for the money it can't be beaten.
 

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For what its worth, I will echo that no matter what you do, you will be severely limiting how good it can sound regardless of what driver you put in it as the OEM box is just way to far below the min requirements for just about any sub I've seen, the one exception being a couple of the newer 6.5"/6.75" subs. but hell even some of them like a box more than 3x the size of the OEM box.

if I could make a recommendation that I didn't see mentioned in this thread yet. there is plenty of room under the floor to build your own new box to put a sub into that will sound 10x better and by removing the OEM box, you will actually INCREASE the free space in the hatch!
 

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Jesus thats a lot of port area, what kind of length does that port need?


still... I wish for the safety of your passengers that battery would get secured down and properly vented.
 

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While I'm not a huge fan of anything from the Comp or CompC line, It would at least be an upgrade over the craptastic factory sub. and you can get away with a pretty small amp to drive it.

If it were me and I wanted to do a box like that one, the CompRT version is slightly wider but smaller in other directions 23.25" x 11.75" x 6.5", it can handle 33% more power and has a little tighter and less muddy bass response.

also, if going with a single sub, I would not get a single 4 ohm voice coil sub. I would shoot for either a single 2ohm VC or a dual 4ohm VC. if you have a single 4ohm load on the amp, most mono amps will only put out half their rated power to that subwoofer (meaning that you are wasting half of the amps potential power or that you need to buy an amp that is twice as powerful)
 

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Sweet, good info...thank you. I am adding that to my Christmas list ;)

I did similar to my crew cab F150, but with Rockford fosgate stuff and it hits great!
 

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well if you're more familiar with Rockford stuff, you can think of it this way...

Kicker = Rockford
Comp/CompC = Prime series
CompR/CompRT = Punch series
L7/Q-Series = Power series
 
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