When you swapped to the RS cam cap, I was curious if you had to get the head line bored so that the new cap lines up right
Or if it worked without touching it, or if you haven’t found out yet lol
The line bore concern was a contribution from a machinist.
I personally wanted to do
@Moment 's method of pulling an RS cam cap.
The reason they don't sell the cam caps individually (from dealer, part store, or Ebay) is because they are line bored to the engine.
For this reason, combined with the machinist's concern of dislocating the cam bore, I welded mine.
The cap bolt hole location on
@Moment 's build may now be slightly dislocated for the Camshaft Bore.... It might be dead on. who knows. This is why Ford line bores it to remove all doubt.
The cam bore is a very tightly tolerance surface, Likely toleranced to 1/10th of a thou (no citation here lol). Oil pressure in the journal is very specific to this tolerance.
If its off center it could lead to premature wear and incorrect oil distribution in the journal.
But then again, most Hondas don't even need piston rings to run so who cares?
The part definitely expands and contracts during welding. From what I could measure it contracted back to its correct shape due to even and rapid aluminum heat conduction. measurement devices I have don't go below 0.001".
I think we have a lesser of two evils situation here.
View attachment 400234
I don't know what the hole marked in blue is for? When applying a pump with 2.3 ecoboost, it has no use because it enters the hole in the pump housing with 2.3 eb.
The hole in blue is marked to show that Ford anticipated the 2.3L motor. The blue hole has no use in the 2013 2.0L engine, but they planned for the 2016 2.3L
We are saying the same thing
@Moment
Thank you so much for the pictures and doing this pull! excellent material for anyone else going down this path. I will put a link to your screenshot thread in the title post.
