[limusclecars89]

I've been trying to get my 2017 Focus ST to pass inspection for the last 3 months. So far everything I have tried hasn't work. It's 100% bone stock, no modifications at all. I had the car 3 years, first 2 years I had no problem at all. Over the winter I had to get a small repair (charge pipe came off the intercooler and wasn't getting boost). Super simple fix, but my mechanic must have disconnected the battery to do it for whatever reason. Now I cannot get the O2 and heated O2 monitors to set readiness. I drove over 1,000 miles following the driving procedure and they never set readiness. My mechanic thought it might be a glitch, so he reset the computer and I started all over again. Now 400 miles later, they still won't ready. They logged the car and I logged the car with hptuners to see what was going on. Absolutely no codes, no CEL, no pending codes, and car seems to be working perfectly, Fuel trims are within +,- 3 for the most part, no KR, nothing. It drives perfectly and when scanned, it appears to be functioning perfectly as well, so I'm completely stumped.

Anybody have any ideas of what could be wrong? I don't want to just start changing parts, spending money and guessing, especially when the car runs perfectly. I don't know what else to do at this point.

 

[rambleon84]

What's been your process for doing the drive cycle? This has been a pain point for several folks where as others say they have no issues getting it done.

Are you able to tell us what monitor is not ready?
A basic odb2 device should be able to read the systems. A free app like torque with a Bluetooth dongle can pull it:

 

[limusclecars89]

It's the O2 sensor and O2 sensor heater that won't ready.
I've idled, drove smoothly in a stop and go manner, held 25 mph for 2 minutes, 35 mph for 2 minutes, 45 mph for 2 minutes, and 55 mph for much longer than that as well as 65 mph. Multiple times for hundreds of miles. I also came to complete stops with stop and go driving, coasted for long periods of time without downshifting etc. You name it, I've done it.
I have hptuners and logged the car with it, everything seems perfect. It just shows the O2 and heated O2's as still not ready.

 

[limusclecars89]

This is interesting... Now what do I do?

 

[rambleon84]

Did the previous owner leave a tune on the car? Back in the wild west days, tuners would turn off the cat monitor so those running catless wouldn't have to see a cel all the time...Cobb has removed this feature since.

Try seeing if you can map switch:

 

[limusclecars89]

Did the previous owner leave a tune on the car? Back in the wild west days, tuners would turn off the cat monitor so those running catless wouldn't have to see a cel all the time...Cobb has removed this feature since.

Try seeing if you can map switch:

I don't believe they did, I compared the tuning file I pulled from the car to a stock file and they're identical. I've been searching all day for a solution, and it seems to be a pretty common problem. Is it possible the car just won't get hot enough in the colder winter months? I read somewhere IAT's need to be between 40 and 100 degrees.

 

[junits15]

So here’s the general advice:

- if you have a stored code for emissions you have a failed part

- if the monitors are not ready and there are no stored codes you haven’t correctly completed the drive cycle

 

[MailmanMike]

I wonder if the car was tuned by the previous owner and had map switching on the fly? It could have been on a “Cobb stage one” type tune with all monitors enabled but got switched to a custom or “stage three”? No AP needed for these slot changes. Isn’t there a way to check with the RPM gauge?

 

[Boogiesadda]

For $100 you can use my address and replate it in Florida. No inspections and Florida plates are common enough in NY to not raise eyebrows while you figure it out. Just kidding I don't miss living there or any state with an inspection process.

 

[G heinrich]

I know another guy in New York who's having a hell of a problem for months getting his O2 sensors to ready. I go right through inspection on a stage 3 tune no problems.

 

[limusclecars89]

So here’s the general advice:

- if you have a stored code for emissions you have a failed part

- if the monitors are not ready and there are no stored codes you haven’t correctly completed the drive cycle

So what if I have no stored codes and also correctly completed the drive cycle? The screenshot I shared shows the heated O2 as "not enabled."

 

[limusclecars89]

I know another guy in New York who's having a hell of a problem for months getting his O2 sensors to ready. I go right through inspection on a stage 3 tune no problems.

Is it possible that it's more difficult to set the right conditions in the colder months? It takes a solid 15 minutes of 70 mph highway cruising to get the car up to normal operating temperatures that won't start falling once you stop moving the car. This is on the really cold days.

 

[junits15]

So what if I have no stored codes and also correctly completed the drive cycle? The screenshot I shared shows the heated O2 as "not enabled."

I'm inclined to say that just means you didn't complete the drive cycle, it is much more difficult to get the monitors ready in the cold but it should still work. However you did drive a lot.

The screenshot shows heated catalyst as not enabled these cars don't have an externally heated catalyst so that checks out as normal. Your long term fuel trim is kind of high at 11%. Commanded and actual WB EQ ratio are not in agreement, 0.96λ is 13.5:1 AFR which is a good ways off of the commanded 1λ or 14.08:1 AFR. So the ECM is adding 11% extra fuel and as a result the mixture is rich at idle. I'm wondering if you may have a failed or failing lambda sensor.

It seems like something is wrong and it isn't that you're not completing the drive cycle, I'm willing to bet a code will set eventually.

 

[rambleon84]

I wonder if the car was tuned by the previous owner and had map switching on the fly? It could have been on a “Cobb stage one” type tune with all monitors enabled but got switched to a custom or “stage three”? No AP needed for these slot changes. Isn’t there a way to check with the RPM gauge?

Yes, the video I linked to goes over that process

Did the previous owner leave a tune on the car? Back in the wild west days, tuners would turn off the cat monitor so those running catless wouldn't have to see a cel all the time...Cobb has removed this feature since.

Try seeing if you can map switch:

 

[MailmanMike]

Yes, the video I linked to goes over that process

The poster says it passed and set for two years then he disconnected the battery. I’m thinking it changed the map slot. That would explain his issue.

 

[rambleon84]

The poster says it passed and set for two years then he disconnected the battery. I’m thinking it changed the map slot. That would explain his issue.

That could do it...I always forget that, has happened to me. My low boost 93 tune is slot one and my e40 is slot two. It'll default to one and it takes me a day or a pull or two to realize something is lacking lol

 

[limusclecars89]

I'm inclined to say that just means you didn't complete the drive cycle, it is much more difficult to get the monitors ready in the cold but it should still work. However you did drive a lot.

The screenshot shows heated catalyst as not enabled these cars don't have an externally heated catalyst so that checks out as normal. Your long term fuel trim is kind of high at 11%. Commanded and actual WB EQ ratio are not in agreement, 0.96λ is 13.5:1 AFR which is a good ways off of the commanded 1λ or 14.08:1 AFR. So the ECM is adding 11% extra fuel and as a result the mixture is rich at idle. I'm wondering if you may have a failed or failing lambda sensor.

It seems like something is wrong and it isn't that you're not completing the drive cycle, I'm willing to bet a code will set eventually.

So how would I fix this? Is there a "lambda sensor" that could be changed, or would that be the O2 sensors?

Doesn't + usually mean it's adding fuel, meaning it's detecting a lean condition and adding fuel to compensate? Is this out of the ordinary for a stock car?

 

[rob99rt]

That could do it...I always forget that, has happened to me. My low boost 93 tune is slot one and my e40 is slot two. It'll default to one and it takes me a day or a pull or two to realize something is lacking lol

I intentionally asked Brian to set my low boost/low timing slot to number 1 in the list since it's the safest slot and things would default to that if the battery was changed out/kam got reset.

Consequently, there have been a couple times with kam resets that I forgot to go to slot 2 or 3 and wondered why it seemed like the car was a LOT calmer when I put my foot down. Just a touch of difference between 14 psi and 29+.

 

[limusclecars89]

The poster says it passed and set for two years then he disconnected the battery. I’m thinking it changed the map slot. That would explain his issue.

If I had that, it would have disabled the cruise control to allow for map switching right? I used cruise control recently.

 

[MtnMan]

If I had that, it would have disabled the cruise control to allow for map switching right? I used cruise control recently.

No, cruise still works. Doesn't disable it.

To map switch, cruise has to be OFF to work tho. The +/- buttons switch the slots.
Easier to see the needle move if you're not close to 1000 RPM like at idle after a battery disconnect or reset.

COBB Custom Features: 5-Way Map Switching on Ford Vehicles - Customer Support Center - Confluence