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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Alloy wheel

Current Modifications -

Unleashed Tune (Unidentified)
AEM Water/Methanol Injection (no tank version, 2 nozzles)
Thermal R&D Turbo Back 3" Exhaust (including Catted DP)
Mountune Intake
Steeda/CPe Lightweight Intercooler
ATP GTX3071R Gen II .64 A/R w/High Boost Actuator
Nitrous Express EFI Dry System with NX Maximizer 4
Mountune Lower Charge Pipe and Silicone Hoses
TurboSmart Vee Port Pro 22mm BOV
Sistomper Coolant Mod (50% Water/50% Coolant + HY-Per Lube Super Coolant)
Unleashed 170 degree thermostat

*If it's not mentioned it's OEM issue

Current best ET = 13.14+
Current best MPH = 102.67+
*Best Run with WMI (500 cc Pre-Turbo) = [email protected]
+ With Cobb DP + Stock Cat-Back (15-16 degrees of timing advance)

Konig Inception Wheels (17 x 8.5)
M&H Race Master Slicks (26 x 8.5 x 17)

Alloy wheel Tire Rim Automotive tire Wheel Land vehicle Alloy wheel Vehicle Car Tire

That's all for now. Unless otherwise told, I am going to assume 13.430 is tune only record.
 

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Definitely need to upgrade its breathing.... intake downpipe and exhaust.to gets its full potential. Then go big turbo
 
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Definitely need to upgrade its breathing.... intake downpipe and exhaust.to gets its full potential. Then go big turbo
if you are going BT do NOT waste your time with bolt ons ... most BT kits come with all the bolt ons and the generic bolt ons don't work with kits

if you are not going with a kit then again you must have the ability to fab yourself and don't need bolt ons.

Cat back exhaust is about the only thing you could purchase before hand but honestly it is better to just have a shop build exhaust to our liking after the BT kit is installed.

oh and get the biggest intercooler you can buy!!!
 

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All you need to run an EFR kit is an aftermarket intercooler, everything else is provided to you. A cat-back isn't provided but that could be something to think about too


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if you are going BT do NOT waste your time with bolt ons ... most BT kits come with all the bolt ons and the generic bolt ons don't work with kits

if you are not going with a kit then again you must have the ability to fab yourself and don't need bolt ons.

Cat back exhaust is about the only thing you could purchase before hand but honestly it is better to just have a shop build exhaust to our liking after the BT kit is installed.

oh and get the biggest intercooler you can buy!!!
Your right lol that's what I get for commenting when I'm half asleep haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well.... I rather not openly discuss what's happening.

But with that said I am coming to the end of phase one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Update -

Added:

Cobb Catted Down pipe
Mountune Intake

New PB ET = 13.146
New PB MPH = 102.67

Best run of the day was [email protected]

Text


Details, Notes -

Run #1 15 psi in the slicks (2.14 60'), [email protected]
Run #2 12.5 psi in the slicks (1.80 60'), [email protected]
Run #3 11.5 psi in the slicks (1.79 60'), [email protected]

Last two runs same as #3

Unfortunately these days I'm at the track by myself. So it could have run a little faster if I had somebody help me push the car through the lanes. As it was, coolant temps and such were somewhat stabilized, but it did get slower and slower as the day progressed.

There some things I need to tidy up and I really need to do something about the front end coming up and rear squat.

*Found a video of run #1 -


@7:32 mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
The last three weeks I've run the car at two different tracks and I'm less than satisfied.

[email protected] (1.80 60') CMI Spring Jam

Today at IDRC at Fontana -

During qualifying, about 15 mins apart only shut it off if there was a delay (car stopped on track, twice). Fired it right back up when was clear and the line was moving.

I'd say the cooling mod works (50% water + Purple Ice with 50% factory coolant) thanks @SIstomper

12:50 pm = [email protected] (1.82 60')
1:17 pm = [email protected] (1.85)
1:30 pm = [email protected] (1.83)

Did I mention it was 84-90 degrees today? The stock intercooler is killing me, that said the differences in trap just reflect I'm still working with shift points.

I was ready to run brackets but it was not to be. I accidentally put the car in reverse instead of 1st gear, so when the light drop, I slightly went backwards. But at least the car trapped at 101.10 mph.

It's time to start Phase Two, what is that? Stay tuned...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Broke into the 12's, more in a bit.


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Congrats man, seen a lot of your posts with great information keep up the good work!

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Congrats man, seen a lot of your posts with great information keep up the good work!

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Thanks, this is only the very start of what's to come.

I also ran [email protected] on street tires @ 30 psi, this is why I am going to switch to drag radials sooner rather than later. My slicks were at 9 psi, now the reality is I would have done this at 12-13 psi with a burnout.

But just switching tires with roughly the same amount of cool down results in picking up 2 mph? Sign me up, the key is keep most of the air in the tires... More to come on that front.

The 60 fts are terrible, but I really wanted a 12 out of this current configuration so mission accomplished.

I also short shifted 3-4 for some reason so the WRX in the other lane caught me when I out 60 ft him (1.98 vs my 1.90). You can match/beat AWD cars with a FWD without the expense and fear you'll break a driveline part in the process, which is always a concern with AWD cars.

Didn't change my launch rpm for either, it's still 6100 rpm.
 

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What size wheels and tires are you running? Any pics of the car? Not sure if I've actually seen you post one and I've been forum diving for a week

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
What size wheels and tires are you running? Any pics of the car? Not sure if I've actually seen you post one and I've been forum diving for a week

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Street tires or the slicks?

If it's street tires it largely doesn't matter I was just curious.

When looking at hard acceleration you must understand what's happening in order to understand what do next.

Then you need to disqualify other attempts at solving the problem if they don't meet your level of expectations.

Does an LSD, motor mounts and braces solve the problem? Do expensive Michelin tires solve the problem?

I believe the answer is no because more fundamental things need to happen before all that works as intended and expeceted.

Nexen tires won't provide any more or less grip

A Michelin Pilot Sport is super sticky but its for circuit racing and canyon running.

You can get the car to hook on $130 Firestone Indy 500's you just can't do it like everybody else here as done it up to this point and expect things to work.

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Curiosity on both since a focus with slicks sounds out of this world! Lol and for street my curiosity is peaked because I know from reading all your posts how much you love grip lol

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Curiosity on both since a focus with slicks sounds out of this world! Lol and for street my curiosity is peaked because I know from reading all your posts how much you love grip lol

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Alright -

M&H Racemaster Slicks 26 x 8.5 x 17

You need a wheel at least 17x8.5

PM me I can get you a discount code

Nexen N'Fera 300 wear rating, summer tires not the all season tires = $119 each

As I said what you use doesn't matter with a larger turbo as I clearly stated and have demonstrated.

With the stock turbo slicks are a quick and easy way to drop the car's ET's by nearly a second all things being equal. Drag Radials work but if you treat them like slicks you'll be disappointed with the results.

I would vote for drag radials with the stock turbo because you don't have an overabundance of power. You have to treat them differently to get the same 1.7x 60 ft times you can get out of slicks and they won't slow you down nearly as much as I just showed.

I can make enough power to overcome low air pressure in the slicks, but even then lots of the really fast guys are moving to radials, it's the FWD community that's last to do it and comes at it from a slick runners point of view.

In-fact I just found out by making that sharp right turn to make the first turnout, I damaged the sidewall of right side slick = DONE

So the question becomes, do I buy another slick or do I make the switch to drag radials?
 

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Thanks for the info, never knew they got damaged like that. I still have a lot to learn and appreciate the time. Keep the updates and motivation flowing.

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