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2014 St1 electrical issues

1196 Views 28 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  2013WhiteST
I made a post on here several months ago (10 to be exact) and unfortunately have little to no progress at this point. Due to a newborn and work i have not had time for the car. The car originally had an electrical issue and the tail lights would light up while the car was off and was killing my battery. I’m assuming due to the low voltage my car was freaking out and sending all kinds of CELs. I’ve since then replaced the battery once more with a new motorcraft battery. Since the new battery, the car will start up with no hesitationand have no lights on the dash until you tap the gas pedal. It will blip the Rpms once, then several lights come on the dash including no hill assist and service messages. I’ve checked all the wires from the pedal to the bjb and all seems well. I’ve tried a different gas pedal as well and it did the same exact thing. I’m over this car at this point and contemplating selling it as is. The next step may also be a bounty for the determination of the issues.
In the meantime I’ve set mouse traps under the hood and inside the car and check them regularly with no evidence of guests. I start the car weekly and let it run until operating temperature.
I’m unfortunately not very active on the forum and do not know how to link the original post or if it’s possible to do so.
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@Kajester
What codes come up?
@Kajester
What codes come up?
I’m sorry I forgot to add this into the post. Since a new battery and clearing all codes only a couple come back. One is for my unplugged symposer and one for the pedal I believe.

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I’m sorry I forgot to add this into the post. Since a new battery and clearing all codes only a couple come back. One is for my unplugged symposer and one for the pedal I believe.
Well something is causing the PCM to detect higher than normal voltage on the APP circuit.

Recently another member experienced a throttle related issue due to a voltage issue.
It ended up being a damaged wire back near the canister vent solenoid (under the rear of the vehicle).

You've already tried replacing the APP throttle?
Well something is causing the PCM to detect higher than normal voltage on the APP circuit.

Recently another member experienced a throttle related issue due to a voltage issue.
It ended up being a damaged wire back near the canister vent solenoid (under the rear of the vehicle).

You've already tried replacing the APP throttle?
I replaced the pedal with a gas pedal from a regular focus from the same year. They appeared to be the exact same minus the silver pedal.
I replaced the pedal with a gas pedal from a regular focus from the same year. They appeared to be the exact same minus the silver pedal.
Do you own a DMM (digital multimeter)?
Do you own a DMM (digital multimeter)?
Indeed I do.
I have metered all the app1 and app2 wires from the pedal to the bjb and all seems well. My next step was going to be unplugging the pcm and checking all the wires from the bjb to the pcm.
I'll post up some things to help.
I'll post up some things to help.
Much appreciated!!
@Kajester

So let's start here as I'm not 100% up to speed. I apologize if you've already answered any of these questions.
Other than the battery (was it age or did it keep dying?) has there been anything else that happened?

Any mods, accidents, recent maintenance that has occurred? Just trying to get a full picture of everything.

First we need to determine the VREF (Voltage Reference) for both APP circuits. Set you DMM to DC and if it's not a model the auto selects the range set it to operate in the 20 Volts.

At the APP/ throttle connector with the ignition set to on measure the voltage coming from the PCM (powertrain control module)

APP 1:
Red lead - PIN 1
Black lead - PIN 3
VREF = ?

APP 2:
Red lead - PIN 6
Black lead - PIN 4
VREF = ?

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From here we can hopefully begin to decide where the issue may be.

The way these sensors return information back to the PCM is like this.

Both sensors are given an operation voltage know as a VREF (voltage reference) this is the 5 VDC + side on the circuit.
The "ground" side of the sensors is known as the SIGRTN (signal return) but actually the 5 VDC - side.

When the throttle connector is hooked up each sensor will return a voltage signal back based on there configuration.

One is "High" which means that as the pedal is depressed the voltage goes from 4.8 VDC all the way down to .25 VDC.

The other is "Low" which performs just the opposite. As the pedal is depressed the voltage goes from .25 VDC to 4.8 VDC.

Rectangle Font Material property Parallel Engineering


The PCM checks these two sensors against each other to determine the position the drivers foot is in. It also acts a safety as a single sensor design could short out and cause a runaway engine condition.

When you step on the throttle and your car goes nuts its because it's trying to protect you. One of these two circuits has something wrong with it. Now we have to find out which.

Start here and report back. We can discuss the next steps afterwards.

J
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No accidents or recent maintenance other than a new battery. When I bought the car several years back I did a intake, cat back and rmm. The first time I had issues which was 10 months ago I put a new battery in then. I believed the tail lights coming on randomly is what killed my battery. I don't know if it had anything to do with not resetting the BMS. I left the battery hooked up as I no longer saw the tail lights coming on which resulted in the battery dieing again. I can't be sure of the exact reason. More recently I put a brand new battery in it to verify the battery had nothing to do with the issue.

Following the advise of the last post I have check the vref on both app1 and app2.

APP 1:
Red lead - PIN 1
Black lead - PIN 3
VREF = 5v

APP 2:
Red lead - PIN 6
Black lead - PIN 4
VREF = 5v
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@Kajester

So let's start here as I'm not 100% up to speed. I apologize if you've already answered any of these questions.
Other than the battery (was it age or did it keep dying?) has there been anything else that happened?

Any mods, accidents, recent maintenance that has occurred? Just trying to get a full picture of everything.

First we need to determine the VREF (Voltage Reference) for both APP circuits. Set you DMM to DC and if it's not a model the auto selects the range set it to operate in the 20 Volts.

At the APP/ throttle connector with the ignition set to on measure the voltage coming from the PCM (powertrain control module)

APP 1:
Red lead - PIN 1
Black lead - PIN 3
VREF = ?

APP 2:
Red lead - PIN 6
Black lead - PIN 4
VREF = ?

View attachment 414676

From here we can hopefully begin to decide where the issue may be.

The way these sensors return information back to the PCM is like this.

Both sensors are given an operation voltage know as a VREF (voltage reference) this is the 5 VDC + side on the circuit.
The "ground" side of the sensors is known as the SIGRTN (signal return) but actually the 5 VDC - side.

When the throttle connector is hooked up each sensor will return a voltage signal back based on there configuration.

One is "High" which means that as the pedal is depressed the voltage goes from 4.8 VDC all the way down to .25 VDC.

The other is "Low" which performs just the opposite. As the pedal is depressed the voltage goes from .25 VDC to 4.8 VDC.

View attachment 414677

The PCM checks these two sensors against each other to determine the position the drivers foot is in. It also acts a safety as a single sensor design could short out and cause a runaway engine condition.

When you step on the throttle and your car goes nuts its because it's trying to protect you. One of these two circuits has something wrong with it. Now we have to find out which.

Start here and report back. We can discuss the next steps afterwards.

J
Removing my pcm and checking everything there is my next step.
Removing my pcm and checking everything there is my next step.
I will look over this tonight when I get home. Currently on the road and just happened to see your reply.

J
I will look over this tonight when I get home. Currently on the road and just happened to see your reply.

J
I will look over this tonight when I get home. Currently on the road and just happened to see your reply.

J
I was also looking at a diagnostic write up that indicates to check the connections to the instrument cluster. I can’t figure out how the instrument cluster could anything to do with it. The write up also indicates the issue is either the pedal, the instrument cluster or the pcm. I’m starting to lean towards a pcm issue but haven’t had the chance to mess with it.
I was also looking at a diagnostic write up that indicates to check the connections to the instrument cluster. I can’t figure out how the instrument cluster could anything to do with it. The write up also indicates the issue is either the pedal, the instrument cluster or the pcm. I’m starting to lean towards a pcm issue but haven’t had the chance to mess with it.
The connector to the BJB (battery junction box) C1035C can get a little bit strange at times. It is the primary connection between the interior & PCM.
Circuit component Passive circuit component Hardware programmer Electronic component Electronic engineering
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The connector to the BJB (battery junction box) C1035C can get a little bit strange at times. It is the primary connection between the interior & PCM.
View attachment 415572
I was thinking about it and could there be any chance not resetting the BMS could have caused these issues? Thinking about it since I have replaced the battery I have not been able to drive the car whatsoever. My new battery died and I charged it outside the car. Im not sure if it could affect anything but I’m at my wits end.
Are you still getting the P2128 APP switch E code?
Are you still getting the P2128 APP switch E code?
Yes that is still the only code getting and everything works perfectly fine excluding the gas pedal.
Yes that is still the only code getting and everything works perfectly fine excluding the gas pedal.
Have you tried a new pedal? (I apologize if I've asked this already) been a long few days.
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