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Our 13 ST has yet to be uploaded, but I did some research, took some photos, and built this from a #[email protected]! load of cut n' pastes. I havnt found any incorrectly color coded wires coming from the DSP (Factory Amp). Make sure everything matches up before you start snipping wires. Enjoy!


Sony Wiring Diagram.png
 

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Our 13 ST has yet to be uploaded, but I did some research, took some photos, and built this from a #[email protected]! load of cut n' pastes. I havnt found any incorrectly color coded wires coming from the DSP (Factory Amp). Make sure everything matches up before you start snipping wires. Enjoy!

<img src="http://www.focusst.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6252"/>
This is most welcome. Thanks and great find!
Andrew

Sent from my Nexus 4 using FocusST.org
 

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amazing work.. thank you
 

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This will definetely help
 

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Thank you! Props for this. So I'm feeling mixed about the stereo in my ST2. At about 50% volume, the bass from the sounds great, but the speakers aren't loud enough. At max volume, the speakers are almost loud enough for me, but it seems like the sub woofer almost completely disappears. I'm sure there's some sort of power management going on somewhere in here that keeps the system from overloading. I'm thinking of splicing in another amp somewhere, either using the stock amp to drive just the sub woofer and installing a second amp for the speakers, or doing the reverse (splicing in a second amp for the sub woofer). Anyone experimented with this at all? I'd hate to think I sprang for the ST2 package for the upgraded stereo, only to have to completely replace it anyway. I'm probably just spoiled since I had 1400 Watts of sound going to my 6 speaker 2 sub woofer system in my last car. I knew at 350 Watts in the ST2 stereo, it wouldn't be anywhere close to my old system, but I'd like to close that gap as much as possible without reducing the amount of trunk space I have. In my SRT-4 my sub box pretty much filled the trunk, and it made it a pain any time I needed to retrieve the spare tire or carry something.
 

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Our 13 ST has yet to be uploaded, but I did some research, took some photos, and built this from a #[email protected]! load of cut n' pastes. I havnt found any incorrectly color coded wires coming from the DSP (Factory Amp). Make sure everything matches up before you start snipping wires. Enjoy!


View attachment 6252
You rock. I wasn't feeling good about putting in amps/speakers in my ST, but I will now and am ordering stuff as we speak.

One watchout for everyone - In looking at this diagram, it appears there are only 4 signals going from the head unit to the amp. LR, RR, LF, and RF. This could be VERY good but some testing needs to be done. I've seen a few installs using this Sony system where people have taken the OUTPUTS of the amp and using a processor to sum the tweeter and mid/woofer together before going to their amps. That means the head unit is putting out a full range signal, the Sony amp is splitting it, then they are re-combining it. Every step adds distoration and error so it would be good to get the signal before the Sony amp hacks it all up if possible. This is what I'll try to do.
 

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One question though - does anyone know what the "stereo 2l+ and stereo 2l-" are on the top right of the Audio Control Module?

Also, I'm wondering if the Sync sounds are generated in the Sony amp (Audio Digital Signal Processing Module). If that is the case and my method above is used, we'll lose those sounds.
 

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rgonyer, this is the part I am at as well. Looking at the diagram, I agree the best place to take the line from the stock head unit is before the Sony amp. However I think it needs to be tested (I will be doing this today) to see if this line is fixed or variable (volume knob controlled). If it is fixed level, the Sony amp will be controlling volume and will not be easy to bypass in this regard. For now I think the Sony amp will have to stay in the mix somewhere for the CAN data lines even if the audio lines before it are variable.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I am pretty sure it is a fixed signal. Today I acquired the signal before the amp and lost all volume control.

Initially I used all 4 speakers for 2 LOCs. Volume on the screen moved back and forth but the speaker volume did not change. Then I only used 4 wires, LF +/- and RF +/- and still lost volume control AND it stopped changing on the screen .

I only had volume control with the LOC and amp gains.

I did not mess with the IP speaker.

The other 8 I hooked up to a 4 channel amp.

Im going to hook the signal wires back up and take the signal from after the amp to see if this works. It has to.

Let me know what you figure out. I'm glad I could help out.
 

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So, would you say the only option is to acquire the signal from after the amp? I think I will use the LF +/- and RF +/- after the amp, inches after the amp, for the signal.

Prior to these discoveries, I was going to use two line out converters for the four channel amp and the built in low pass output on the four channel amp for the sub amp. What if the signal is crossed over in the amp to filter out frequencies below circa 100Hz? If thats the case the sub amp will be utilizing a crossed over signal meant for mids and highs.

That being said, Do you guys think it would be more beneficial to either add another LOC to use with the factory sub wires for the new sub amp or use two Y adapters on one LOC for the four channel and use the other LOC for the sub amp?

This system vexes me.

I cant seem to find the reason for the way this unit operates. If the signal wires to the front speakers are snipped, we lose all volume control?!

Wtb RCA outs from the FHU kkthnx FoMoCo.
 

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Also meant to ask, anyone find a strong enough remote turn-on lead in the cargo area?

I tried the "enable" lead, not enough juice it seems.
Were you able to find a turn-on wire? I plan to do my install this coming weekend and this is the last piece of info I need. Thanks!
 

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Were you able to find a turn-on wire? I plan to do my install this coming weekend and this is the last piece of info I need. Thanks!
Yes, Ill post a pic when I get to a computer. Looking into the cargo area from outside the car, on your left, there is a panel. Remove that to expose a fuse panel. There are a couple rows of fuses, the one you need is on the left when looking at it straight ahead. Its an empty fuse slot, about the third or fourth one down. One side has a spot that you can slide a very small male connector into and it will stay put.
 

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So, would you say the only option is to acquire the signal from after the amp? I think I will use the LF +/- and RF +/- after the amp, inches after the amp, for the signal.

Prior to these discoveries, I was going to use two line out converters for the four channel amp and the built in low pass output on the four channel amp for the sub amp. What if the signal is crossed over in the amp to filter out frequencies below circa 100Hz? If thats the case the sub amp will be utilizing a crossed over signal meant for mids and highs.

That being said, Do you guys think it would be more beneficial to either add another LOC to use with the factory sub wires for the new sub amp or use two Y adapters on one LOC for the four channel and use the other LOC for the sub amp?

This system vexes me.

I cant seem to find the reason for the way this unit operates. If the signal wires to the front speakers are snipped, we lose all volume control?!

Wtb RCA outs from the FHU kkthnx FoMoCo.
Jeez, you would think Ford would just give us some volume controlled pre-DSP line out RCA's for those of us that want to upgrade What a pain!

Here's what I'm worried about - you definitely have to get the signal AFTER it's amplified. For one, the volume control is done in the amp as stated above. ALSO - and I haven't tested this, but I would just about guarantee the sync announciation is done there as well, so you won't have your synch speech/sounds if you tap before. Regardless, unless you want an external volume control you don't have a choice.

Now here's what I'm worried about- The amp outputs seperate outputs for the front left and right woofer, and the front left and right tweeter. To pull a signal here, you'd have to combine those. What voodoo has been injected into the signal for these two speakers in order to make cheap factory speakers sound good? You can be guaranteed there is a ton of equialization going on before the signal is amplified. So then I thought- I could just pull the rear channels for my signals which would work, but there's still no guarnatee what equalization/processing might be going on for those. At least those two do not get split for the tweeter and woofer, that's done passively at the speaker. But then you'd have no fader use if you use the rear outputs for front and back inputs.

Also - will we need to pick up the subwoofer signals as well, or can that be defeated at the head unit so full range goes to the front and back? I doubt it, so we'll need a way to combine the high level tweeter, mid, and subwoofer into a unit that can re-process all this garbage. - 3SIXTY Digital Processors - 3SIXTY.3 - Rockford Fosgate®

Another thought - I wonder if the signal could be traced inside the Sony amp and try to pick up the signal after the Sync sounds are inserted, and after volume control - but before all the crossover has been done? That would be ideal. Anyone have access to a schematic of the amp?
 
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