Big Turbo - Daily Driver?
Welcome guest, is this your first visit? Click the "Create Account" button now to join.

User Tag List

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14
Like Tree7Likes

Thread: Big Turbo - Daily Driver?

  1. #1
    FST Member kevperro's Avatar
    This user has no status.
     

    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Monroe, WA
    Posts
    75
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Big Turbo - Daily Driver?

    I've read more about Focus ST turbos than you can shake a stick at. The more I've read the less certain I've become that I should pursue going that route.

    My Concerns:

    #1. I need the final result to be reliable. I'm an adult and drive my car accordingly. I don't drop the clutch and slam through the gears. I don't race.... I don't abuse my vehicle in any way. Looking at this modification I've always operated under the assumption that if I operate the car the way I operate the stock one, that it won't place unreasonable stress on the drivetrain, rods, pistons etc..etc... A conservatively tuned GTX 2867 should actually be easier than the stock turbo from the standpoint of torque down low, stress on the vehicle.

    Am I wrong?

    #2. I cannot have a vehicle that sounds like a boy racer. I can deal with a mature sounding Ford Performance, Mountune, CNT type cat-back (listening to YouTube videos) but I cannot have a fart-machine for work. I represent my company and we don't have the option of showing up in a vehicle that sounds like a used 2-cycle chainsaw. The final result has to sound legal. It can sound like a sports car but not like an illegal chopped drag racer.

    Is this a reasonable expectation on a big-turbo ST? I'll happily give-up 10-20 HP to achieve that and I have the money to purchase whichever solution best fits my priorities.

  2. #2
    I spend too much of my life on FST! aaronc7's Avatar
    is needing the v8 powa
     

    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Navarre, FL
    Posts
    590
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    1.) mid 300 hp has proven to be reliable, long term. I was at that point and my only long term concern was that fuel pressure dropped a tiny bit at peak torque... I was right at the limits of the stock hpfp on pump gas. Running WMI might be a wise choice for longevity on stock motor... or ethanol mix. Pick your poison, but ethanol route you might get into fuel volume issues.

    This bottom line comes down to getting a good tune and communicating your goals with tuner.

    2.) Get a catted downpipe and one of those 2.5" exhausts and you should be good to go. I had catted DP with stock catback and it was still super quiet. BT in itself will increase volume some as the turbine is significantly larger. Mountune might be your best bet based on what I've read about the catbacks and wanting to keep things on the quieter side. I'm like you-- I can't DD a boy racer loud car.
    oVrKiLL likes this.

  3. #3
    FST Member kevperro's Avatar
    This user has no status.
     

    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Monroe, WA
    Posts
    75
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by aaronc7 View Post
    1.) mid 300 hp has proven to be reliable, long term. I was at that point and my only long term concern was that fuel pressure dropped a tiny bit at peak torque... I was right at the limits of the stock hpfp on pump gas. Running WMI might be a wise choice for longevity on stock motor... or ethanol mix. Pick your poison, but ethanol route you might get into fuel volume issues.

    This bottom line comes down to getting a good tune and communicating your goals with tuner.

    2.) Get a catted downpipe and one of those 2.5" exhausts and you should be good to go. I had catted DP with stock catback and it was still super quiet. BT in itself will increase volume some as the turbine is significantly larger. Mountune might be your best bet based on what I've read about the catbacks and wanting to keep things on the quieter side. I'm like you-- I can't DD a boy racer loud car.
    Ok... in a nutshell. Don't take any shortcuts on the tune, go conservate, use WMI without the kill tune, port injection not for the power necessarily, but for the extra control over fuel delivery. Go with the slower spooling turbo to push the torque curve up the RPM range which preserves traction, alleviates torque steer, and reduced stress on driveline components. I live fairly close to Stratified so I'm leaning towards just taking the vehicle to them and letting them tune it on the dyno along with expressing my desire for a conservative tune.

    Catted downpipe with Mountune 2.5" exhaust.

    https://www.mountuneusa.com/mountune...a.htm?CartID=1
    oVrKiLL and screzzy like this.

  4. Remove Advertisements
    FocusST.org
    Advertisements
     

  5. #4
    I spend too much of my life on FST! oVrKiLL's Avatar
    This user has no status.
     

    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    939
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'm running both WMI and 4port aux with a gtx2867r gen2 turbo (not tuning for WMI and have a 175ml nozzle (small nozzle)).
    I can say that running a catted DP with a decent 3' exhaust (Thermal R&D) makes daily'ing the car a lot better noise level wise inside the car however if you are worried about opinions due to noise outside a good 2.5' exhaust like the Mountune or if you want a 3' a Milltek Exhaust might be a better idea. I have run both catted and catless on my car and since I no longer daily (as much) it I switched back to catless.
    screzzy likes this.
    2016 Race Red ST3
    Tuned by JST
    GTX2867r Gen2 .64ar
    JBR Hotside/ColdSide ChargePipes w/Tial BOV
    CNT Catless Downpipe
    Thermal R&D Exhaust
    RebelDevil Downpipe Bracket
    DepoRacing 3.5 Intercooler
    NGK 6510's
    Steeda Intake Manifold Spacer
    Custom 4port Aux fuel
    Boomba Throttlebody Spacer
    AEM v2 WMI
    CPE Symposer Delete
    JBR Lower Mount (PCV side) CatchCan
    Steeda Intake side AOS
    Boomba RMM
    ST X Coilovers
    Niche Misano Wheels 18x8 Matte Black
    Firestone Firehawk Indy 500

    Instagram

  6. #5
    FST Senior Member obicanobi0's Avatar
    This user has no status.
     

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    buffalo ny
    Posts
    121
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have a 200 cell catted downpipe and stock cat-back with my 2867. I'm right around 330whp on 93. My tuner said my spool i a little slower that what he has seen on other setups. I could have a small leak or it just may be the sock exhaust, im not sure. If your really worried about noise and are going to be getting a conservative tune anyway, just leave the stock exhaust on.

  7. #6
    FST Junkie! rambleon84's Avatar
    is so mote be it
     

    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    1,121
    Mentioned
    34 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by kevperro View Post
    I live fairly close to Stratified so I'm leaning towards just taking the vehicle to them and letting them tune it on the dyno along with expressing my desire for a conservative tune.

    Catted downpipe with Mountune 2.5" exhaust.
    You should reach out to Stratified then too, see what they suggest.

    I would also consider a turbo that is internally wastegated liked the stock unit, aka one of the EFR's. Of course, staying out of boost or even light boost doesnt make the dump pipe scream, not having it would keep things tamer sounding.
    https://www.mountuneusa.com/mountune...2363-tu-aa.htm

    I think catted dp and only a 2.5" exhaust(with muffler/res of course) would get the sound you are after.
    Mod list here

  8. #7
    FST Junkie! NJFocusST's Avatar
    This user has no status.
     

    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Western Mass
    Posts
    1,703
    Mentioned
    22 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    You could keep the stock exhaust on a BT set up. That's what I have been running w/ a catless DP with an EFR 6758. Still pretty quiet. Or for the ultimate qiuet exhuast that you can open her up and let her rip, you can buy a res-delete w/ e-cut out from me
    oVrKiLL likes this.
    2013 st2
    Panda "Stage 3" Tune, Mods: FSWERKS Cool Flow Intake tube, cobb filter, steeda shift bracket, steeda rsb, OCD V1 3" Catted DP, DIY (Godspeed) IC, Breedt Intake Runner plate, Boomba BOV, Denso 1 step colder spark plugs, Drag DR-34 Wheels, Bridgestone S-04 tires, Ford Racing Springs, CFM RMM (4 inserts), Bilstein B8's, Wilwood 13" BBK up front w/ BP-10 pads, Stoptech slotted rotors in back with HPS pads, JBR solid shifter bushings, Motul 600 Brake Fluid.

  9. #8
    FST Senior Member FoST2016's Avatar
    This user has no status.
     

    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Denver
    Posts
    183
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'm really confused as to why you are even considering a BT. A BT will always be less reliable than the stock setup. The only real issue that low-end torque can cause is LSPI which Ford has thoroughly addressed. The vast majority of engine issues occur when pressures and heat are relatively high. This is when component wear occurs and a BT will amplify that by increasing cylinder pressures at high engine speeds. There is absolutely no guarantee your BT setup will be reliable and issues can be very hard to diagnose and fix.

    The sound of car is entirely dependent on the exhaust, bypass valve and intake. There are plenty of options out there that won't make much more noise than stock, but a turbo 2.0L I4 is never going to sound like a sonorous naturally aspirated sports car. You can pick from quiet or boyracer, thats pretty much it. If you go the quiet route and run a conservative tune, you are going to barely make more power than an E30 tuned stage 3 FoST.

    It sounds like you don't plan on really using a BT setup to its full potential, so why even bother? Save yourself a lot of headache and trade your car in for a GTI/GLI. A flash tune will put them close to the power levels of a BT FoST while offering a more comfortable and mature ride.
    Steeda FMIC - Steeda Symposer Delete - Steeda Clutch Spring - Steeda Rear Shock Tower Brace - Steeda Rear 25mm Sway Bar
    JBR Shift Cable Bracket Bushings - JBR Oil Catch Can - JBR Silicone Induction Hose
    MBRP Catted Downpipe - MBRP XP Catback
    Mountune Re-circulation Valve
    Accelerator Pedal Mount Spacer
    FSWerks Short Shift Kit - 30%
    NGK LTR7IX-11 Spark Plugs
    Cobb Rear Motor Mount
    Roush Cold Air Intake
    Stratified Tuned
    TB Traction Bar

  10. #9
    FST Member kevperro's Avatar
    This user has no status.
     

    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Monroe, WA
    Posts
    75
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by FoST2016 View Post
    I'm really confused as to why you are even considering a BT. A BT will always be less reliable than the stock setup. The only real issue that low-end torque can cause is LSPI which Ford has thoroughly addressed. The vast majority of engine issues occur when pressures and heat are relatively high. This is when component wear occurs and a BT will amplify that by increasing cylinder pressures at high engine speeds. There is absolutely no guarantee your BT setup will be reliable and issues can be very hard to diagnose and fix.

    The sound of car is entirely dependent on the exhaust, bypass valve and intake. There are plenty of options out there that won't make much more noise than stock, but a turbo 2.0L I4 is never going to sound like a sonorous naturally aspirated sports car. You can pick from quiet or boyracer, thats pretty much it. If you go the quiet route and run a conservative tune, you are going to barely make more power than an E30 tuned stage 3 FoST.

    It sounds like you don't plan on really using a BT setup to its full potential, so why even bother? Save yourself a lot of headache and trade your car in for a GTI/GLI. A flash tune will put them close to the power levels of a BT FoST while offering a more comfortable and mature ride.
    I drove a new GTI before buying my ST. I liked the ST better and my Focus ST was $7000 cheaper with less miles on it (but a rebuilt title). I recognize the GTI is easier to make faster and more civilized. In the end I just enjoyed driving the ST more than the GTI. I could care less if it is a half second slower 0-60 or in the quarter. Plus.... I have $7K to blow on "upgrades" which is part of the fun.

    In terms of reliability I know that stock is most reliable. But what kind of fun is that? I have a desire to tinker with my car and I want to make "upgrades" with the priority of maintaining, to the extent possible, reliability and keeping the noise within a reasonable range. Maximizing a BT is a matter of personal priorities and my priorities are just different than yours.
    beretta96 likes this.

  11. #10
    FST Senior Member xeroevil's Avatar
    This user has no status.
     

    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Marion, NC
    Posts
    209
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I daily drive my car, and I'm running the Mountune MRX EFR kit, with the 6758. That being said, I do have the Mountune 3" catless downpipe, but it is paired with the Magnaflow "cat-back", and it has a deep, more refined sound in my opinion. Way deeper and quieter than the MBRP or AWE exhaust setups, but is also only 2.5". I'd recommend going with an exhaust that has a resonator and muffler, or two resonators to cut down on the noise while still flowing well.
    oVrKiLL likes this.

 

 
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Sponsored Links

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Find us on Google+