My 2013 FoST 1 Experience After 70 Months and 100,000 Miles
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Thread: My 2013 FoST 1 Experience After 70 Months and 100,000 Miles

  1. #1
    I spend too much of my life on FST! StanE's Avatar
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    My 2013 FoST 1 Experience After 70 Months and 100,000 Miles

    As I pass the 100,000 mark with my 2013 FoST 1 I thought I would outline my experiences with the car, as well as summarize the modifications done over the past almost 6 years:

    1) Routine and Precautionary Maintenance Summary:
    - Full Synthetic Oil Changes every 5-6,000 miles (at various places including my local Ford dealer, Jiffy Lube, Tire stores and a couple DIY).
    - Brake pads and rotors (Ford OE) at 30,000 and again at about 70,000. Full brake fluid flush through each time. DIY
    - Air and Cabin Air Filters every 15,000 or so. DIY
    - Gearbox oil and coolant changed at about 80,000. DIY.
    - Serpentine Belt Changed at about 90,000 (Precautionary only - the original looked fine). Done by a local shop at the same time as the clutch was replaced.
    - Clutch (including slave cylinder and master cylinder/pedal) and dual mass flywheel changed at about 90,000 (also precautionary only - the original friction plate was only about half worn and the original flywheel was well within spec). All parts were replaced with new Ford OE, except the flywheel, which was obtained used from a 2017 FoST with 10,000 miles. This was done at a local independent shop.
    - Tires and alignments every 25,000 or so. Tried Firestone, Bridgestone and Michelin tires (Summer only, as I live in South Florida).
    - New batteries every 2.5 years or so (on third battery now). Battery location together with the Florida heat kills them fast.

    2) Things Gone Wrong Within Warranty)/Recalls:
    Note that the car was bought with the extended powertrain warranty (to 5 Years/60,000 miles).
    - Stiffer rear motor mount from E-Focus and new clutch hydraulic pipe fitted under warranty at 2,800 miles.
    - Intercooler charge pipe blow off. Replaced and tightened under warranty at 3,500 miles.
    - Mysterious vacuum leak eventually traced to the sound symposer system after several attempts to fix it. Complete symposer system replaced under warranty at 60,600 miles. (and then promptly removed by me and a blanking plate fitted! Prior to that I had the symposer turned off electronically via my tune - see also mechanical modifications below).
    - Low fuel pressure fault at 59,000 miles. HPFP and all four injectors replaced under warranty, right before it expired (go me!).
    - Front strut mounts/bearings also replaced under warranty at 59,000 miles to fix clicking noise when turning lock to lock.
    - Engine wiring loom splice recall completed at 27,000 miles.
    - Fuel tank/vapor purge system recall completed at 91,500 miles.
    - Door latch recall and BCM reprogramming recall both completed at 75,800 miles.

    3) Things Gone Wrong Outside Warranty:
    - Left Front Control Arm Replaced at 63,300 (ball joint started squeaking really bad). This was done at a local tire store.
    - OE Radio/head unit replaced at 50,000 approx., as the original started generating really loud static at random intervals. This is a known issue with the Focus (non-Sony) head units and means that the amplifier IC chip is failing. Replacement unit was obtained through used parts network for about $100. DIY (easy)
    - Heater fan motor speed controller replaced at 70,000 approx. DIY (easy, but a little awkward to access)
    - Feed and return heater hoses replaced at 80,000 approx., due to a coolant leak developing at the bulkhead fitting. DIY (and a PITA!).
    - Overflow tank bypass hose replaced at 85,000 approx., coolant leak due to an invisible fracture at the hose fitting where it enters a pipe manifold just above the transmission. DIY (easy).
    - Both headlamps replaced due to plastic discoloration/fading/peeling. DIY (very easy)

    4) Modification List (Mechanical):
    - COBB short shift plate. DIY
    - Solid shifter bushings at both ends. DIY
    - Steeda short shift lever. DIY
    - Hood Struts. DIY
    - JLT Oil Separator (front side) and Steeda Oil Separator (back side). DIY
    - Steeda sound symposer delete plate. DIY
    - StopTech Stainless Brake Hoses. DIY
    - Black Gorilla wheel studs.

    5) Modification List (Electrical and Electronic):
    - Unleashed Stage 1 Tune by Torrie (includes electronic turn off of the sound symposer and replacement of the upshift indicator for economy with an upshift indicator at near redline)
    - Infinity Primus Component Speakers (front) and matching Coaxial (rear). DIY
    - Used OE ST2/3 subwoofer housing, with the original Sony driver unit replaced by a Rockford Fosgate driver and the cavity stuffed with Polyfill. DIY
    - JL Audio signal correction, equalization and amplifier package installed (in the foam cavities under the hatch floor) and the system calibrated by a local custom shop E3 Upholstery. Package includes JL Audio FiX-86, TwK-88 and XD700/5v2. The completed system ROCKS!!
    - Backup Camera in Hatch Latch Release Button (Chinese knock off of the OE) and integration of the camera image onto the 4 Inch OE screen via a Canbus filtering ECU from local company NAV-TV, installed behind the head unit. DIY

    6) Modification List (Convenience and Cosmetic):
    - Focus RS Airbox with red Gel "RS" Inlay. DIY
    - A second set of used front and rear OE brake calipers purchased, stripped, cleaned, painted red (with G2 paint) and rebuilt with all new hardware (to replicate the OE red caliper package that only became available from 2014 on). DIY
    - Very good used set of Rado Grey snowflake wheels purchased and installed to replace standard the silver snowflakes.
    - OE Carbon Fiber interior package (as on later ST3) - includes front door trim "spears", aux gage cluster housing, shifter knob and e-brake handle. DIY
    - Custom perforated leather with 2-color stitching for gearshift gaiter, e-brake gaiter, armrest cover and front and rear door armrest inserts - all from Redline Goods. All DIY except for the armrest inserts, where I had help from local custom shop E3 Upholstery.
    - Ford OE Focus rubber carpet mat set
    - BCM reprogrammed for global windows up/down and turned off audible seat belt chime. DIY
    - Window Tint
    - ST aluminum valve caps

    This FoST still drives and looks more or less as new and is now ready for its second lap around the clock!

    Most of the issues and the mods have been well covered on this forum already, but if anyone has any questions about the above list and/or my experiences in general I would be happy to comment further.
    Last edited by StanE; 07-03-2019 at 10:26 AM.

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    FST Member Melchior's Avatar
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    Very cool. Thanks for the detailed history. Sounds like she's been very good to you?

    So I take it the intake valves were never cleaned? Any noticeable loss in power or fuel economy?

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    I spend too much of my life on FST! StanE's Avatar
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    @Melchior : I installed the oil catch devices pretty recently (75,000 approx), so probably the valves need cleaning. But has not been done and performance and economy seem to be as new. Only a slight uneven running and occasional stunble for the first minute or so after cold start might be symptoms perhaps.

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    FST Member redSerpent's Avatar
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    Hey nice writeup! I like how similar our audio systems are, although mine is a bit more basic
    How do you like the cobb plate/steeda lever combo? Seems like a good budget short shift combo; I'm looking into what mods I wanna get for my own shifter assembly. Ever consider doing trans mount bushings or cable ends?
    2016 MM ST1
    Powertrain: Green filter, CFM symposer delete, MRT resonator delete
    Wheels: Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+, Powerstop Z23 pads and rotors
    Shifting: JBR shift arm, JBR trans bracket bushings, OKP cable end bushings, Steeda clutch spring
    Audio: Rockford Fosgate 12" sub, Infinity Primus speakers
    Cosmetic: 20% 3M Tint, 3D Maxpider mats, ZL1 flaps, Lamin-x yellow fog covers

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    I'm really surprised you've had so much maintenance done over the course of 100k. The FoST doesn't require any maintenance other than oil and filter changes until 100k miles. The only exception I'm aware of is if you are in "dusty" or "off-road" conditions, and in that case the transmission fluid is due for a change at 50k. All other items follow the regular maintenance schedule.

    How did you go through 2 sets of brakes by 70k? I've got 68k on my FoST and have at least half the life left on my pads. Seems like you just wanted to feel like the car was new all the time... which I don't blame you for. Other than oil & cabin air filter changes I haven't had to do anything. I have performed 2 walnut blasts to keep the engine running like new, and install new plugs every 10k since I'm tuned.

    I did have the brake/clutch master cylinder start leaking at around 35k which was replaced under warranty. I also have an extended warranty, but mine goes to 6y/100k. My ST is stage 3 though, so I doubt I would get anything covered if I brought them the car how it currently stands. Either way I do plan to change the clutch, coolant, brake/clutch fluid, and tranny fluid again at 100k.

    Do you find it weird that the brake fluid service isn't mentioned, nor does it have a service schedule?

  7. #6
    I spend too much of my life on FST! StanE's Avatar
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    @redSerpent : Thank you for reminding me! I did do the solid bushings at the shifter end and at the transmission end (early on - at the same time I put in the Cobb plate). The Steeda short shift arm came much later.
    I did buy the solid metal cable bushings too, but haven’t installed them yet (because lazy)! I’m happy with the combination as is (I think both the Cobb plate and the Steeda lever are at their mid level reductions).

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    I spend too much of my life on FST! StanE's Avatar
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    @ALo ha-from-bradley: You are quite correct about the brakes - when I did the first pad change at around 30k miles there was tons of pad life left. I actually just did the fronts and initially used a metallic pad to cut down the dust. But the noise when cold was unacceptable to me so I quickly switched back to OE.
    The next pad change was in connection with the red caliper mod - used all new hardware for that, including pads and rotors.
    Other fluid maintenance just made sense to me and it was easy and relatively cheap to do (especially having access to a lift at the time). I wasn’t particularly focused on following manufacturer's schedule.
    The clutch replacement was probably overkill but I wanted to do that as a “fit and forget” item for the remaining life of the car.
    Last edited by StanE; 07-03-2019 at 11:32 AM.

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    FST Noob! Rodney's Avatar
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    At this point I would start thinking about overhauling the engine if you want to keep it. After 100,000 miles that is when things start failing.

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    I spend too much of my life on FST! StanE's Avatar
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    @Rodney : I did have an oil analysis done a few thousand miles ago and all the markers look good, so I’m not concerned about any catastrophic mechanical failure any time soon. I would of course expect things like alternator, water pump to maybe need replacement over the next 100k! Also I don’t drive the car particularly hard - it’s a daily commuter primarily.

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    I spend too much of my life on FST! chazfarote's Avatar
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    How'd you get the vapor valve recall done?? They keep telling me they need new software and it's not ready yet. I even can Ford customer service who tell me the same thing.

    Edit: mine's a '13 ST3 with 116k miles.

    Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

 

 
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