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    FST Member wterry's Avatar
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    New ST Owner (2017 ST3)

    Hello all,

    After lots of research, I purchased my first ST today. I’m waiting for a COBB Carbon fiber intake, Accessport, Intercooler, and NGKs to arrive in the mail. Does anyone here have any tips for a first time ST owner looking to stage 2? I have access to 93 and intend to use it.

    Just looking for some tips for Engine longevity as I plan to keep this car for a long time - hopefully this doesn’t mean I shouldn’t stage 2 it. I’m not looking to take to track or launch the car, just want some fun pulls in my daily driver. Anything would be appreciated! Thanks.

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    I spend too much of my life on FST! GotAFoSTnSpeed6's Avatar
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    Pro etune...it's ok to use the Cobb OTS for a few weeks if you must but I wouldn't RECOMMEND living on them, there are a few who will tell you they've driven on them for most of the life of their car, that doesn't necessarily make it the ideal situation. A new PCV plate and or catch can is not a terrible idea. Gap plugs to about .025 to .027 they'll stretch anyways. Always grandma cruise it until your coolant temp and oil temp gauges are pretty well in full warm position and youll start to recognize where that is on the oil gauge as you drive depending on the temp outside sometimes it runs alil cooler so it may sit in different spots, obviously coolant temp is full operating temp when needle is in the middle resting position. It's a wise idea even if your not going stage 2 to do an upgraded core even if you don't do charge pipes the factory intercooler is incredibly inefficient. There's more but I'm at work and trying to remember everything in 5 mins. Some others will post I'm sure. Oh the post facelift model have the upgraded RMM so it's kinda preference on doing an aftermarket one, I am going too on my 2018 ST just because I feel like even the upgraded one still has alot of front and back motion. So that's another idea, shift bushings, bracket bushings...and more.
    2018 Ford Focus ST2
    Metallic Blue
    Velossa Tech Big Mouth Ram Air
    Stock Air box w/ K&N filter
    Mountune Symposer Delete
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    BoomBa Racing Shifter Base & Cable Bracket Bushings
    Ford Racing Short Shifter
    COBB v3 Accessport


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    FST Member wterry's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GotAFoSTnSpeed6 View Post
    Pro etune...it's ok to use the Cobb OTS for a few weeks if you must but I wouldn't RECOMMEND living on them, there are a few who will tell you they've driven on them for most of the life of their car, that doesn't necessarily make it the ideal situation. A new PCV plate and or catch can is not a terrible idea. Gap plugs to about .025 to .027 they'll stretch anyways. Always grandma cruise it until your coolant temp and oil temp gauges are pretty well in full warm position and youll start to recognize where that is on the oil gauge as you drive depending on the temp outside sometimes it runs alil cooler so it may sit in different spots, obviously coolant temp is full operating temp when needle is in the middle resting position. It's a wise idea even if your not going stage 2 to do an upgraded core even if you don't do charge pipes the factory intercooler is incredibly inefficient. There's more but I'm at work and trying to remember everything in 5 mins. Some others will post I'm sure. Oh the post facelift model have the upgraded RMM so it's kinda preference on doing an aftermarket one, I am going too on my 2018 ST just because I feel like even the upgraded one still has alot of front and back motion. So that's another idea, shift bushings, bracket bushings...and more.
    Oh great! Thanks for the info. Any suggestions for a pro e-tune? Not sure how to go about that really. Or what it entails...


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    I spend too much of my life on FST! G heinrich's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wterry View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by GotAFoSTnSpeed6 View Post
    Pro etune...it's ok to use the Cobb OTS for a few weeks if you must but I wouldn't RECOMMEND living on them, there are a few who will tell you they've driven on them for most of the life of their car, that doesn't necessarily make it the ideal situation. A new PCV plate and or catch can is not a terrible idea. Gap plugs to about .025 to .027 they'll stretch anyways. Always grandma cruise it until your coolant temp and oil temp gauges are pretty well in full warm position and youll start to recognize where that is on the oil gauge as you drive depending on the temp outside sometimes it runs alil cooler so it may sit in different spots, obviously coolant temp is full operating temp when needle is in the middle resting position. It's a wise idea even if your not going stage 2 to do an upgraded core even if you don't do charge pipes the factory intercooler is incredibly inefficient. There's more but I'm at work and trying to remember everything in 5 mins. Some others will post I'm sure. Oh the post facelift model have the upgraded RMM so it's kinda preference on doing an aftermarket one, I am going too on my 2018 ST just because I feel like even the upgraded one still has alot of front and back motion. So that's another idea, shift bushings, bracket bushings...and more.
    Oh great! Thanks for the info. Any suggestions for a pro e-tune? Not sure how to go about that really. Or what it entails...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    for a pro e-tune you purchase a tune from the tuner. They'll send you a basemap you'll load it onto the ECU. Then you'll have to do a few 3rd or 4th gear pulls tuners preference and data log certain monitors for them. Then send them the data logs in an e-mail they'll make revisions to the tune on Sunday the revised tune and so on and you'll keep doing that until your tune is perfect. Another idea for a Lynn jevity of the engine is WMI. keeps everything running cooler and safer. And keeps the intake valves clean. if you go this route you probably don't need a catch can a breather plate.I have a dual Port catch can myself but I plan on going the meth injection route. jst and stratified seem to be the top etuners for our platform but there are few others.

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    FST Member wterry's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by G heinrich View Post
    for a pro e-tune you purchase a tune from the tuner. They'll send you a basemap you'll load it onto the ECU. Then you'll have to do a few 3rd or 4th gear pulls tuners preference and data log certain monitors for them. Then send them the data logs in an e-mail they'll make revisions to the tune on Sunday the revised tune and so on and you'll keep doing that until your tune is perfect. Another idea for a Lynn jevity of the engine is WMI. keeps everything running cooler and safer. And keeps the intake valves clean. if you go this route you probably don't need a catch can a breather plate.I have a dual Port catch can myself but I plan on going the meth injection route. jst and stratified seem to be the top etuners for our platform but there are few others.
    Oh I see, thank you! Are there any threads on Stratified's TBI to keep the intake valves clean instead of WMI? I'm mostly interested in keeping the engine in healthy condition because it's my daily, so I think the 2 injectors in the TB will help keep those valves clean while also allowing the 300~ HP i am interested in. I have no intentions of fitting a larger turbo, but I will be full stage 2 Cobb this coming weekend. I'm guessing I should talk to stratified about adding their TBI and purchasing a custom tune at that time.

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    He’s right about a legit tune. My 15 ST3 is at 105k miles I’ve been stage 2 on a Cobb OTS tune the entire time I’ve had no issues anywhere at all. But I drove a friends car with a custom tune on the Cobb accessport and it was a big difference. You can go stage 3 and still run the car until the wheels fall off. Just take good care of it and don’t beat the dog crap out of it all the time. It’s a great engine if maintained properly. Lot of people will say different but not everyone’s a ford engineer I’ve stuck with ford specific motor craft full synthetic oil the entire time too. Also he’s right about the intercooler upgrade that ASAP. Stick intercooler is complete junk. I went with the CPE lightweight FMIC and it’s never read more than 10 degrees above ambient temps. I would also recommend buying a paint correction pen as our paint layers are very thin and this body style absolutely loves getting rock chips on the freeway haha. And don’t get into the throttle too much at low RPMS, low speed pre ignition. It’ll chew your motor up. Just in case you didn’t already know that. They’re awesome cars enjoy!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by wterry View Post
    Oh I see, thank you! Are there any threads on Stratified's TBI to keep the intake valves clean instead of WMI? I'm mostly interested in keeping the engine in healthy condition because it's my daily, so I think the 2 injectors in the TB will help keep those valves clean while also allowing the 300~ HP i am interested in.
    One big thing to help keep your valves clean, mentioned by @michael_ST , is to not lug the car at low RPM, especially in gears 5 and 6 - that's how most people blow their motors. Cruising around in any gear is fine but when you need to accelerate, drop gears and be smart. Me personally, I try to avoid more than 1-2 psi in 5th or 6th as a rule of thumb. To keep the valves clean even more, this might sound obvious, but run the car in a "spirited" manner at least occasionally. I've noticed I start to get misfires at cold temps on start-ups, most likely form valves getting dirty. Then I'll run it hard, like do an autocross event and all that WOT really does clean the valves and my misfires are completely gone. I do agree completely that WMI is the best way long term to maintain clean valves especially because you don't need to tune for it, you can just run it. But if you don't want to go that route, simply don't lug the engine and have fun with your car every once and a while and you'll be doing your car wonders.

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    FST Member wterry's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PDXslowboi View Post
    One big thing to help keep your valves clean, mentioned by @michael_ST , is to not lug the car at low RPM, especially in gears 5 and 6 - that's how most people blow their motors. Cruising around in any gear is fine but when you need to accelerate, drop gears and be smart. Me personally, I try to avoid more than 1-2 psi in 5th or 6th as a rule of thumb. To keep the valves clean even more, this might sound obvious, but run the car in a "spirited" manner at least occasionally. I've noticed I start to get misfires at cold temps on start-ups, most likely form valves getting dirty. Then I'll run it hard, like do an autocross event and all that WOT really does clean the valves and my misfires are completely gone. I do agree completely that WMI is the best way long term to maintain clean valves especially because you don't need to tune for it, you can just run it. But if you don't want to go that route, simply don't lug the engine and have fun with your car every once and a while and you'll be doing your car wonders.
    Awesome, thanks! Any links on WMI? I might look into that.


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    FST Member PDXslowboi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wterry View Post
    Awesome, thanks! Any links on WMI? I might look into that.


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    The couple guys I know that run meth use Snow Performance:
    https://www.snowperformance.net/Gas-...kits-s/100.htm
    I don't run meth currently so I'm not the expert on the different stages, but this is a good place to start and I bet if you search around you'll find some good info. I know @nickbaldwin86 knows his stuff.
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    FST Junkie! nickbaldwin86's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PDXslowboi View Post
    The couple guys I know that run meth use Snow Performance:
    https://www.snowperformance.net/Gas-...kits-s/100.htm
    I don't run meth currently so I'm not the expert on the different stages, but this is a good place to start and I bet if you search around you'll find some good info. I know @nickbaldwin86 knows his stuff.
    I run stage 1 Snow. all you need if you aren't looking to tune for it. I don't trust tuning for it.

    Bunch of information across the web on meth and the good bad and ugly of it. Good, cleans valves and eliminates corrections. Bad, if not setup correctly, to much spray or at low boost and you will loose performance. Gets ugly if you tune for it and your run out of meth or pump fails during a hard high PSI pull, motor tends to dislike that and normally gives up

 

 
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