OAR refresh
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Thread: OAR refresh

  1. #1
    FST Noob! Remon95's Avatar
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    OAR refresh

    Hello guys ,

    can you tell me how can i raise my OAR ? i read before somewhere that i have to be on boost for a couple of seconds without knock and then release the throttle or something like this , can you confirm this ? thank you !

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    FST Member Bladesje's Avatar
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    Most people will have OAR close to -1 but it does not necessarily have to be at -1 it just needs to be stable. Your car learns OAR the best when under wide open throttle or under boost.

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    FST Junkie! nickbaldwin86's Avatar
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    Run only highest octane Chevron gas you can get and you should always be at -1. Mine is always solid on -1 and only take a few 3rd gear WOT pulls to get to -1.

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    It seems to move up faster with higher load pulls (higher gears) revved all the way to redline.

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    FST Junkie! nickbaldwin86's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1LoudST View Post
    It seems to move up faster with higher load pulls (higher gears) revved all the way to redline.
    are you recommending doing a LSPI pull to get your car to -1?

    high load pulls are NEVER recommended for any reason at all!

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    Quote Originally Posted by nickbaldwin86 View Post
    are you recommending doing a LSPI pull to get your car to -1?

    high load pulls are NEVER recommended for any reason at all!

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    If you take 4th to redline, what RPM is 5th at when you shift, like 5k? I dont think they were implying take fifth or sixth gear starting at like 2500rpm to redline, that would be an ouchy

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    FST Junkie! 1LoudST's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickbaldwin86 View Post
    are you recommending doing a LSPI pull to get your car to -1?


    high load pulls are NEVER recommended for any reason at all!

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    You can do a higher load pull without being in the LSPI danger zone.

    First off, the LS in LSPI is for Low Speed... It's not called high speed pre-ignition, It's plenty safe to do a WOT pull in 4th gear starting above 2.5krpm and run to redline (as a lot of tuners will ask you to do during data logs/dyno runs. 5th gear isn't a huge difference in ratio from 4th so it's also safe to do from a little higher RPM (4k or so) or coming off a 4th to 5th gear change

    As far as "high load pulls are NEVER recommended for any reason at all" I have never been able to get the Oar to move more than half way in low load 1st and 2nd gear pulls, also docents help much that WOT in the 1st two gears will almost instantly spin the tires and mess with the cars ability to properly measure the quality of the fuel.

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    FST Junkie! nickbaldwin86's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1LoudST View Post
    You can do a higher load pull without being in the LSPI danger zone.

    First off, the LS in LSPI is for Low Speed... It's not called high speed pre-ignition, It's plenty safe to do a WOT pull in 4th gear starting above 2.5krpm and run to redline (as a lot of tuners will ask you to do during data logs/dyno runs. 5th gear isn't a huge difference in ratio from 4th so it's also safe to do from a little higher RPM (4k or so) or coming off a 4th to 5th gear change

    As far as "high load pulls are NEVER recommended for any reason at all" I have never been able to get the Oar to move more than half way in low load 1st and 2nd gear pulls, also docents help much that WOT in the 1st two gears will almost instantly spin the tires and mess with the cars ability to properly measure the quality of the fuel.

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    referring to high load just sounded off putting.. you can do a 3rd or 4th gear pull in the 2800+ RPM range and not be high load (LSPI) danger. I guess it was the way I read it that made me go, umm I dont think I am following.

    to get to -1 I normally do a few 3rd gear pulls at 2800RPM and I am there in a blink. maybe my tune? or maybe my gas but I have never had a issue getting to -1 quickly.

    Agree 1st and 2nd gear pulls are not going to get you to -1 fast and I wouldn't even recommend trying it.

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    part throttle, around 3 psi, a nice long single gear pull will get it there very quickly too

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    A pull from 2800K in 3rd is still a high load, but as it was pointed out has nothing to do with LSPI. I know you know that Nick, you had a brain fart...Lol. When talking about it in a danger zone its more not even necessarily being in a high gear at low low rpms and flooring it, which would try to create like an artificial high load, like the computer is calling for it but the motor can't do it. But technically you can do it in any gear if your luggin the engine, say in 3rd or even 2nd at 1300rpms maybe even 2k may lug I try to stay out of that range mostly unless I am in first gear. I noticed with my Speed6 and the ST seems the same for the most part, it seems to thrive above 2750rpm and up to 5500 or so, like thats where the engine wants to be. Anyways, way off subject with that 2 cents of mine. As far as OAR, I never seem to have any issue I have never seen mine venture away from -1.00 unless I do a KAM and as soon as I start driving within a few miles it goes right back to -1.00 and I mean I don't even have to rally or do pulls it just goes right back there. So as for fuel quality I feel bad for the people that leave out west where the octane is like piss water. I can even run my local chain store 93 and not get negative ignition corrections and stay at -1.00 OAR. I mean I usually run Sunoco gas which I have heard people say its not Top Tier which I checked recently and it most definitely is. Anyways, I also put like 3 or 4 gallons of 100 octane in every so many miles like every 500 unless Im feeling frisky then I do like half a tank. Anyways I think my point is if you have good quality gas you shouldn't have to manipulate your ecu to create a good OAR definition. IF you are having to do so, then maybe think about having your tuner to a 91 octane tune and use your best 93 available that way that should help with it.
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