I have been meaning to start a build thread for awhile so here goes. I bought my car from Rob T at the end of 2014. It was the best set up used car and price I could find and have not seen any deal to match yet. As I got it from Rob it was a full stage III Cobb,LSD, KW Varient III Shocks,Cobb sway bars,ATS 8.5 inch wheels,JBR catch can,Clutchmasters FX 250 clutch and flywheel,Steeda short shift bracket and shifter,JBR solid shifter base bushings,custom Mustang hood vents, pedal spacer. When I picked it up it had 3k miles and had never been driven in the rain. In reality it was a very well set up new car. It saw rain and snow on the drive back to Wyoming. I drove it this way for a year. The two things I did not like at first was it would overheat going up a mountain pass and brake fade. It is not a daily driver and I really only use it for trips and when I feel like racing around. After finding too many deer on the road during a trip to southern Utah I stopped in Salt Lake city on the way back and bought Brembos.
So braking fixed. The next fix was the overheating. I wanted to do a trackday at UMSC but did not want to deal with the overheating problem at the track. So a Deadhook crash bar and Zun Sport grill, oil cooler and some ducting fixed the cooling problem and a 90 degree day at UMSC proved no problem, 208 was the highest coolent temp I saw. WMI seemed like a good cooling thing to add also. So a Aquwamist HSF4 was intalled before the trackday.
Then I started researching chassis braces and decided to get them all. This included a Steeda front shocktower and FS Works rear shocktower brace, Peirce 6point bottom front brace, a custom rear bottom brace and mid chassis brace, and fender braces. The fender braces was the most noticeable change. It really increased turn in and outright corner speed.
Tire wear and alignment numbers were off so JBR camber arms and toe arms bought the numbers into spec. I added a JBR billet swaybar mount at the same time. Next came adj swaybar arms at all four corners. It doing all this I now have heim joints at 12 points in the rear end instead of rubber bushings. The rear swaybar has two mounts and changeing to the stiffer one really took away trace off understeer. The last changes for chassis will be a Steeda Bump steer kit ( I got the last one they made) and White Line bushing all around.
I have all the mm and transmission mounts. Also the shift cable bushings and solid steering rack bushings.
So I decided I would not go big turbo unless I had a spare motor to build. I thought this would prevent me from doing this but a brand new long block came into view for only $1k. So I pulled the trigger. I went to Denver and got rides in a number of BT cars and settled for a 2.3 build with a GTX 2867.
I want to be able to run hard up a mountain pass at 10,000ft and not overheat and have the best pull coming out of a second gear corner with right now boost. I can only run 91 gas with WMI so 400 hp seems like the best power level to get too. It took me a while to come up with the parts combo to do what I wanted. The short block has been at the engine shop for almost a year. I just got my custom Manley pistons to use with Speed Three rods. This puts the piston at the right level in the hole and I got to call out my CR. I settled on just under 10 to 1 which I thing will work well at the elevations I run at. ARP studs top and bottom,I beam rods, BS delete,stock head, 4point aux fuel and WMI. I think this combo will give me just what I want. The car will corner , stop, and accelerate on mountain roads as well as any ST out there. I take the rods and pistons to engine shop on Monday and the build process will get in gear again.
Great post, excellent car. What type of WMI do you have? TB? Intercooler? 4port DPI?
COBB APv3 - Rear Motor Mount
Damond Motor Sports PSMM
ROUSH Intake - Catback Exhaust
MBRP Catless Downpipe
Steeda Sound Symposer Delete
Velossa Tech Badges/Big Mouth/Wing Risers
Bilstein B14 Coil overs
NGK 1 Step cold plugs .026
Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 255/35/18
Enkie RPF1 18x9+35
Garage Line Hood Struts
Boomba engine bay dress up
Shark fin antenna
Hawk HPS pads
Sweet build. Wish I could've snagged one of their crash bars.
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I find it interesting that we put (stronger, billet alloy) fender braces on Mk1 Legacys, too, and noticed the same improvement for very low cost. They were much more flexible cars than the ST, but I think the thing I like so much about the ST is that there's a lot of similar robust feel and eager character between the two cars, though one's more like a rally car set up for asphalt and the other for gravel.
While waiting for the new short block I decided to go ahead and start the bushing project. I am working off the floor so one end at a time starting at the rear. 5 years and 40k miles and there is some wear and tear to be seen. This will be a difference I am sure to feel. I am thinking about a shock rebuid also to have a fully new suspension. If you cannot have a new car its the next best thing. So the rear suspension now will 12 hiemjoints and 6 bushings.
I got the rear bushing finished today. Now that its done I learned a few things. Whiteline does not make all the bushings. It took 5 orders from them to tell me that. I asked why they do not make all of them and they had not answer. So I ordered from Powerflex to finish the job. That only took two orders to get right. If you use their chart of the website you should not have a problem. Without that it seems nobody can keep it straight what is what. The good news is no change in NVH. The rear is just planted and it takes a set with no extra movement. Now onto the front which I think will be even more noticeable. My engine shop called today and I need to order oversize main bearings. They were ready to assemble the short bock when they measured, so that got set back a week or so.