Ooof, good luck.
Alright guys, posting this to keep track of an on going investigation with my car to help others who might experience the same issue.
I purchased a new 2016 FoST ST3 in August. Since then, I have put about 7400 miles on it. Around a month ago, I popped a check engine light for a P0332 code for the knock sensor. This issue was coupled with my volume knob breaking out of nowhere, and my driver's seat becoming wiggly (recaros). By wiggly, I mean that when going around a corner, you can feel the seat shift side to side and make an audible click. It feels as though something is under the seat sliding into the rails, but is the base of the seat moving. I side marked these issues and will focus this post on the check engine light.
After some internet digging, I found only a few posts, 1 on this site pointing to gas with no resolution, and another stating something about dampness and high humidity. Being that the first time it came on, it was raining and nasty out, I figured that there could be relation. After a short while, the light went off. To make sure it wasn't gas related, I filled up with 93 octane on my next fill up (usually use 93, but sometime switch to 87). Within a short time, I received the light for the same error code. This time it was dry and didn't appear to be moisture related. I cleared the code and went on with my business. Within a few days, I received the light again. At this point, I called a local dealer and scheduled an appointment. They wouldn't be able to get me in for close to three weeks, during which, I minimized driving my FoST.
During those three weeks, I attempted to replicate and narrow the causes of the check engine light. The light came on very intermittently. It happened with 93 octane and 87 octane. I am 100% sure it's not related to the fuel I was using as I only used QuikTrip fuel and I've never had an issue before. While the light is on, the engine feels flat around 3k RPM in any gear. You can feel the turbo build boost and then go flat, before building boost again. It almost feels studdery. I assume that this is related to the computer retarding timing on the engine. I would not see any boost above 15psi.
I took my car into the shop last week and the dealer diagnosed a failed knock sensor. They kept the car overnight as they didn't have the part on hand. I received a call the next day and they informed me that they were able to replace the knock sensor and were happy with the repairs. They were unable to fix the radio as they need to order a new face to replace the volume knob, and they were unable to replicate the seat wiggling. I went up there to pick up my car, replicated the seat issue for them, and left the dealer. I took the car out and putted around while I waited for the oil to warm up. I made it about 6 miles before the check engine light came back on. I immediately returned it to the dealer, expressed my frustrations, and gave them my car back. Having talked to a few people, I directed the dealer to investigate wiring and a possible bad ground somewhere. Just some **** I had read on some boards.
The dealer called me the next day to inform me that my car was being worked on by their techs, but they had no idea what was causing the issue. They are working with Ford engineers to try to locate the fault, but acknowledged having seen similar issues with the FoST's (not at this dealership in particular).
This is where we currently stand. I will be updating this post as we go with information as I receive it. I welcome input from other users and will answer any questions to the best of my knowledge.
03/01 - Got the car back from the dealer after a week of being in the shop. The dealer said they worked with Ford engineers to troubleshoot the issue. The dealer wasn't specific about the work they performed even after I pushed him for more information. What he settled on was that, at Ford's recommendation, they went through the wiring harness and checked each of the connections. They also went through and reseated the connectors. He stated that he believed one of the connectors was loose, which caused my issue. I'm not 100% sure they fixed the issue, but I did drive my car a bit and didn't notice any problems. So far everything seems good. The car is maintaining boost and I haven't noticed any of the issues I saw previously. As with anything, this doesn't mean that the issue is resolved, but we are a step in the right direction. I'll revisit this post in a week or so to advise whether things are still good, or if it's broke.
03/02 - Back in the shop. I made it a whole 26 hours this time without a check engine light. I attempted to have the car throw the light while driving yesterday, but everything felt solid. I had no issues up until I was on my way home from work today. I was driving in medium ish traffic on the highway when the light popped. I wasn't driving hard or doing anything in particular, just cruising in 5th getting ready for my exit. I didn't check the code as I'm fairly certain what it was and dropped the car back off to the dealer. The tech who had been working on my car was there and we talked about it a bit. He basically said they weren't sure what the issue was just of yet. At Ford's request, they are going to put a logger on the car (he called it something else, but I can't remember off the top of my head) and see what's up. Not sure when I'm going to get the car back at this point.
03/08 - Received a call from the dealership. They informed me that they will need to replace the computer in the car and it would take a few days to get a replacement. I have a feeling this won't be the end of my issues. I have no idea what's next if this doesn't fix it. I've contacted the dealer I purchased the car through and advised them of the issues. The service manager is going to take a look at the notes on my car. I'm looking to get in contact with a Ford Rep to see what our next steps are going to be.
03/14 - Dealer replaced the ECU/PCM/computer, whatever you want to call it, yesterday. I've also reached out to Ford and requested a local rep reach out to me to open conversation with them. The dealer requested to hang onto the car until today to put some miles on it and make sure that there were no further issues, which was completely fine with me. I got the all clear today and picked up the car this afternoon. Everything felt fine and the car responded well, until the check engine light came back on. Needless to say it's going back into the shop tomorrow morning. I am beyond frustrated at this point. I've been out of my car for 3 weeks and in a rental for that time. The insurance for the rental has amounted to a car payment, then there's gas. I can't really complain about the gas though because I would have spent that money anyway. At this point, I don't know what Ford is going to be able to do about my car, but that will have to be a conversation for tomorrow with the Rep. Absolutely frustrating.
3/18 - Dealer contacted me to advise that they replaced two wires from the PCM to the knock sensor and had driven the car for about 30 miles without issue. They wanted to keep the car over the weekend and put some more miles on it Monday, but I asked to take the car, as it would save me $30 in rental fees. It also allowed me to put some miles on the car when they would be closed. So far, I've driven another 60 miles without a check engine light, so I am hopeful that this resolved my issue. We will see.
03/20 - The weekend has passed and it's looking good. I have yet to have a reoccurrence of a check engine light. Fingers crossed that things keep going well. Ford contacted me to let me know they would be monitoring my case with the dealership in getting things resolved. I'm pretty sure the dealership replaced the radio as my volume knob is working normally now. We are still working on the seat. The dealer has acknowledge the wiggle in the seat, but has to do further research on the issue. I'll update and advise once I get more information.
Last edited by McDrunkenEM; 03-20-2017 at 08:49 AM. Reason: Update
Ooof, good luck.
2013 Focus ST
1985 Merkur XR4Ti
Confused by acronyms? http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-s...ons-terms.html
Has anyone lemon'ed a car before? In Missouri it's 4 attempts to fix the issue or 30 working days in the shop. We are at attempt 3 with no end in sight. I'm curious about the process as I will probably go through with it if we can't get this fixed. I'm paying for insurance on a rental that I don't feel like paying for long term.
Wow! This sounds like the EXACT same thing I went through. Even returning to the dealer immediately. First time power reduced and light came on before I was 200 ft away.
They replaced the knock sensor, AND a failed spark plug.
I believe the sensor was the first replacement, plug second. Maybe suggest they check that?
I was using 87 gas, (didnt know the difference in relation to performance.)
I switched to 91 after and no more issues.
Ps car has been fine since then, dont stress too much its under warranty.
Thanks for the info. I'll have the dealer check the plugs on Monday when service opens up. It would be nice if it got fixed, but at this point, I'm getting a little gun shy with the car. I sold my last car because I spent 3600 in a year on repairs and maintenance, so I decided I needed a warranty. Little did I know I'd be using it as much as I am.
Knock sensor, investigated wiring harness and engine connections, and now replacing ECU. We still haven't gotten to my volume knob being broken or the fact my seat moves side to side when driving... At what point is this car completely screwed?
Rough stuff, If the ecu fixes it the other two issues seem pretty minor and I am sure can be fixed simply.
Thanks Ibepaintin. Turns out the ECU didn't fix it. As for the seat, they believe the issue is a loose bolt, but it's torqued down all the way. It's likely they will have to replace the rails, but they want to make sure they know what the issue is. They are going to do further research. The volume knob should be a super simple fix, though at this point I don't think it matters.
Fixed? 120 miles since last repair with no light. It looks like the issue may have been the wiring between the PCM and the knock sensor. I'm going to continue monitoring to make sure there is no further reoccurrance. I'm extremely happy to have my car back in good working order.