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Thread: Engine Block Heater Replacement

  1. #21
    Super Moderator Duece McCracken's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UnfocusedST View Post


    Sent from another garage.
    Well, wtf. I was talking about an electrical connector. Not a metal plug in the block, lol.

    You are reaching hard at this point, if you were a hot single female in my area, I'd be game, but at this point it's practically trolling.

    Witchhunt is officially off.

    Geez man, I am balls deep in this platform, don't scare me like that.
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  2. #22
    FST Noob! jsibs's Avatar
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    Did we confirm/deny the installed heater? I am in Colorado and instant heat wouldn't be a bad thing. So without the reestablishment of the pitchfork gang, how do I warm the ole girl up in the morning?

  3. #23
    FST Member AddedDistraction's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsibs View Post
    Did we confirm/deny the installed heater? I am in Colorado and instant heat wouldn't be a bad thing. So without the reestablishment of the pitchfork gang, how do I warm the ole girl up in the morning?
    The pic in this thread does show the block heater location. My choice is either remove the entire heater from my block and replace it with the Katts piece. Or replace the element (two piece) in the unit now. From my search online, I believe the heater in my block now is a factory piece. My son works part time at an OEM parts distributor and he's going to fine out if it's a Ford piece. If so, I should be able to replace it for about cost. If you start your car in very cold weather, I would recommend an oil pan heater. Without it, on start up I see very high oil pressure (pegged). It's a lot lower on start up with warm oil. I've also heard the warm oil start ups are better for cold turbos.

    Edit: Kat's unit (11409), $35 (with the cord). Called Ford, $158 for the element and $71.25 for the cord.
    Last edited by AddedDistraction; 12-27-2016 at 02:14 PM.
    Tom

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  5. #24
    FST Member AddedDistraction's Avatar
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    I checked the Focus shop manual and it states to use a vacuum fill device to put coolant back into the system. Since there's no radiator fill access, is this necessary? Are there any air bleed procedures for this system?
    Tom

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  6. #25
    FST Member AddedDistraction's Avatar
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    The shop manual shows the radiator drain uses 4 turns to open. Mine turns 1/4 of a turn and stops hard. So far only 2 quarts came out. So is it 4 turns or 1/4 turn??? I don't want to bust the end off forcing it.

    I couldn't open the petcock any more than a quarter of a turn so I removed the old block heater and lost about a pint of coolant there. The new element (Kat's) is in and no leaks and continuity is good. I'll have to wait until morning to see how warm the engine gets from it. Pics below from the install. Old and busted on the left in the first two pics. The Kat's element is longer, but I checked the depth within the block and it's good.
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    Last edited by AddedDistraction; 01-08-2017 at 04:43 PM.
    Tom

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  7. #26
    FST Member AddedDistraction's Avatar
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    Both block and oil pan heaters work great. It might be cold outside, but she's warm and toasty under the hood.
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    Tom

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  8. #27
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    page one of this thread makes my drunk ass laugh
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  9. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by AddedDistraction View Post
    Both block and oil pan heaters work great. It might be cold outside, but she's warm and toasty under the hood.
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    Oil pan heater? Pictures or it didn't happen.

    Sent from another garage.

  10. #29
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    Can anyone tell me the Allen key size for the cold plug? I bought the Katz block warmer too and want to install but don't have such a larger key, thanks ahead of time!

  11. #30
    FST Member AddedDistraction's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by UnfocusedST View Post
    Oil pan heater? Pictures or it didn't happen.
    If I remember right, it's 150 watts.
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    Tom

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