Video no workie!

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Spam!

 

I eat spam for breakfast....So does the ST...I think...no wait just 91

 

Skizzo, love ya man, but stop saying "um" Please stop saying "um" in your vids please.

 

like, would you like him to like keep saying "like" instead?

 

How about a silent video?

 

or an Asian video dubbed in English - like them old kung fu movies? I think that'd be great!

 

Do these plugs really need anti seize?

 

I have never used anti seize on plugs. Only time I will really use it is on a bushing. A lot of the bolts we replace at work specifically say do not anti seize.

This is a very good article. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-0630111antisieze.pdf

And I have personally seen the ill effects of anti seize and failures.

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Putting a steel/ferrous spark plug into an aluminum cylinder head present a possibility of seizure. Some plugs come with a dab of anti-seize on them. If not, I put some on; most auto stores have a display near the register where you can buy a little packet, enough for up to 8 plugs. I also put di-electric grease (also at the checkout) on the plug boots so they don't stick.

 

If the metal isn't already present treated with a coating I would anti seize. I've never anti seized and the plugs always came out first try.

I am working on that. The problem is I am trying to stay real and not script everything. Hope people like the editing that I am now doing instead of doing a straight run video.

Might I suggest more lighting? Kind of hard to see under the hood in a portion of the video.

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good vid man, thanks!

 

Well done - thanks for sharing.

 

Perfect timing on doing this video since i will be doing mine next wknd.
Any special reason you used the itv24 instead of the 22's??

 

I am testing both sets of plugs. so far the 24's feel great. I had no issues with the 22's either though. I just think the colder the better as long as they selfclean and don't foul out.

 

Nice informationnal video mate. In life, we never criticize what is perfect so I will criticize what needs improvement.

- Need more light under the hood.
- You need a French version. I was just kidding. Not really.....but still, DO IT.
- @ 6:12, you can use that kind of screwdriver as an extension to your rachet.


Nice videos mate, keep'em comming.

 

thanx

 

X2 on the anti-seize. I always use it in AL heads and ONLY change them when the motor is 100% cool.

 

Its all down to personal preference. I don't really see a need since most all spark plugs are already coated.

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I always use anti seize when I replace plugs, but your putting way to much on. A very light coating is better than to much. Maybe use a little less dialectic as well, but otherwise great video

 

I believe the main argument against using anti-seize is accidentally over tightening the plug. If a torque wrench is used, does the anti-seize fool the torque wrench, or is this a problem only when tightening without a torque wrench?

Also, I have heard that it is best to change the plugs with a warm engine, not hot or cold. Here is an excerpt from the workshop manual (303-07B Engine Ignition - 2.0L EcoBoost (184kW/250PS) - MI4, 2012 - 2013 Focus, Removal and Installation, Procedure revision date: 07/25/2012)...

3. NOTE: Do not remove the spark plugs when the engine is hot or cold soaked. Spark plug thread or cylinder head damage can occur. Make sure the engine is warm (hand touch after cooling down) prior to spark plug removal.​

FYI, the workshop manual specifies the torque as 12 Nm, which is approximately 106.2 inch/lb or 8.9 ft/lb.

Due to aluminum expansion when hot, it seems the ideal thing is to remove the plugs when the engine is cool and to install the plugs when the engine is warm. Of course, this is not possible, so what do you recommend for plug removal/installation? Warm (as specified in the workshop manual) or cool?

Summary questions:

01. Does anti-seize on a plug fool a torque wrench?
02. Remove/install plugs with the engine warm or cool?

 

You can't "fool" a torque wrench by adding anti-seize or any lube to a threaded joint. Lubing threads means that more force goes into the clamp load of the joint and less is lost to friction in the threads. Torque specs are written based on the clamp load that needs to be achieved in the joint + some safety factor.

 

yes always remove when everything is cold!!

 

From the workshop manual as quoted above.

So, whats the reason to not follow the manual for the ST?

 

Don't use antiseize on NGK spart plugs. When the threads are black, you need to put some. When they are all shiny, no antiseize, it's a special coating, I can't remember the name. The stock ones did not have antiseize and where easy to remove. Respect the 12 nm torque, don't wait 100000 miles before checking the plugs and you will be good to go WITHout antiseize.

 

The coating is a a Zinc Coating.

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Voilà.

 

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-0630111antisieze.pdf

That should do it.

 

Everything I've ever read or heard has said AL heads only with a completely cold motor. Have anything to support the warm part? I'm not challenging you, I just want to learn more (the entire reason for being on a forum).

 

I read that in the Ford Focus ST Manual.

NOTE: Do not remove the spark plugs when the engine is hot or cold soaked. Spark plug thread or cylinder head damage can occur. Make sure the engine is warm (hand touch after cooling down) prior to spark plug removal.

 

Be careful changing sparkplugs on even a warm aluminum head. Take my word for it.

Years ago I had a Lincoln with the twin-cam 4.6L and made the mistake of changing them when the engine was still a little warm. About a week later, I'm driving to work down an expressway and heard a very loud "pop/bang" sound come from under the hood followed by a consistant "pop pop pop pop" noise. the sound was awful and thought I had thrown a rod or something. I had it towed home only to find that I had blown a spark plug completely out of the head. Once I tore everything down, it looked like 3 others were about to pop as well.

I ended up tapping each plug hole and using solid steel inserts (IIRC, they were called timecerts) which work amazing. It wasn't an easy job to do by yourself but better than paying a shop a grand to do it for you.

So yeah... ever since then... I wont even think about touching any bolt on an aluminum assembly, engine or otherwise, without it being completely cool.

 

Okay, I think I know what is causing the confusion now. This is a copy/paste from the workshop manual:

NOTE: Do not remove the spark plugs when the engine is hot or cold soaked. Spark plug thread or cylinder head damage can occur. Make sure the engine is warm (hand touch after cooling down) prior to spark plug removal.​

The term "cold soaked" means the engine temperature is below 32 F / 0 C. So when Ford says warm, they mean above freezing, but cool enough to touch comfortably. As long as the ambient temperature is well above freezing, letting the engine sit overnight should still be within Ford's recommendation. At least that is how I understand it now.

 

cold means room temp ish. 50-80 degrees F should be perfect.

 

Odd, I've NEVER heard that before.

 

Again, the next three lines are a quote from Ford:

Do not remove the spark plugs when the engine is hot or cold soaked.
Spark plug thread or cylinder head damage can occur.
Make sure the engine is warm (hand touch after cooling down) prior to spark plug removal.​

Although it varies from person to person, human tissue damage can occur when touching metal that is 130 F, so that is obviously too hot to touch.
The term "cold soaked" usually means the engine temperature is below freezing, so 32 F would obviously be too cold.
The acceptable temperature range then, according to Ford, would be somewhere between 32 F and 130 F. I would personally say 80 F was perfect.
Based on the information above, Ford considers 80 F to be a warm engine, though you may personally consider that to be a cold engine.