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Aftermarket gauge install.

90K views 122 replies 39 participants last post by  junits15 
#1 · (Edited)
I've seen alot of people asking for gauge install write ups. So here you go.

I have decided to replace my factory dash gauge pod. The gauges I am using are Defi. There are plenty of gauge choices out there. Choose what soots you. I am also using the Defi visors and gauge pods that are mounted to the non ST dash speaker grill. These instructions will be more specific to this but will work with where ever you mount your gauges.



So after you picked out your gauge/gauges and mounting spot it's time to run some wires and sensors. For my boost gauges I am using a symposer delete with a 1/8th nipple.



Now for Defi I had to mount the sensors close as possible to the vacuum/boost source. Other want you to mount it in a dry location. For my oil pressure and temp sensors I uses a sandwich plate. This happens to be the prosport plate for the Mazda 3. Fits perfectly.



To install the sandwich you have to remove the filter. You will lose a bit of oil. A full oil drain is not needed. Make sure to replace any spilled oil when you are done attaching the sandwich plate and reinstalling the filter.



Now make sure to keep and wires and vacuum lines away from heat sources.



To run the wires and vacuum lines inside the cabin there is a large grommet on the right side where the harness enters the car. It is large enough to poke a hole in so you can run the wires inside. Be careful not to damage the factory wire harness while doing this. Sorry no picture. I made my hole with a knife from the inside. To access the grommet this way you will need to remove the glove box. There are five torx head screws. One on the side. You will have to pop the side panel off for this screw. Open the glove box and pull firmly. It will pop right off.



The first screw is at the lower portion of this area. This will all low you to pull the plastic away from the locking tab.



The next two are in the top inside lip of the glove box.




The last two are the most difficult to find. I had to feel around for them on the bottom. First remove the felt kick shield from the under side. There are two pull nuts that hold this up.



Here are the two screws. I also took a picture of the bottom of the glove box to help people find them.





There is a metal clip attached to the inside of the glove box. You have to give it a good tug to remove it. I did happen to loose my clip. To be careful.

Once you have run wire to the inside run them to your gauges. Now it's time for running power, memory wires. I don't have a location for the illumination wire. For my gauges if I attach power to the illumination wire they dim. So I have left it detached.

I have decided to use fuse taps since they are super simple to use. Splice the wire from your gauge to the wire on the tap. Now find the fuse you want to use.



The far right fuse tap will be your ignition on power. The lower left will be the memory power wire. The top fuse tap is what I was using for my gauges to dim them. I don't remember if this fuse is always on or not.

Next you want a good ground. I found this bolt makes a very nice one and is easy to access.



In the case of the Defi gauges the power cord can be wired up then attached to the gauges. Once you are finished wiring your sensors and power, ground, etc it's time to button everything up.







Sent from another galaxy.
 
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#7 ·
Cartoon Yellow Organ Pleased Finger
write up! :big smile:

I made sure I bookmarked this for when I do my update.
 
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#10 ·
How many wires does each gauge have? I'm guessing sensor, illumination, memory, ignition and groung?
 
#86 ·
Does the glowshift boost gauge come with a boost sensor or does the vacuum line just plug right into the back of the gauge? thanks

also @UnfocusedST did the oil temp and pressure come with those sensors to thread into the sandwich adapter? thanks for the help!
 
#27 ·
I wonder if I can just tap into the low beam headlamp supply so when the headlights turn on it dims?



I originally was wanting to splice into the dimmer wire for the instrument cluster but can not find a wiring diagram anywhere to identify which wire it is. My gauge is going to be mounted to the steering column directly in front of me so it might get annoying if it's super bright.
 
#28 ·
I wonder if I can just tap into the low beam headlamp supply so when the headlights turn on it dims?

View attachment 89777

I originally was wanting to splice into the dimmer wire for the instrument cluster but can not find a wiring diagram anywhere to identify which wire it is. My gauge is going to be mounted to the steering column directly in front of me so it might get annoying if it's super bright.
There's a couple of issues I can think of that.

1) if you run your highbeams the gauge will be brighter during that time.
2) I'm not sure how much power (amps) is running through that power supply, which is why I suggested using relay.


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#34 ·
Just an idea as I really have no idea what I'm talking about, tap into the fog light power? Then you can use the fog lights to control dimming or would it stay always dimmed?
 
#40 ·
Hi Guys i can see your having a problem with the dimming of your gauges.
The wire that is used for illumination is Brown and comes from the BCM. You can pick this up from either, the original pod pin no.2 or the electronic climate control plug or the bank of switches below. When you test with multimeter it does give 12v to earth regardless of lighting switch position. However I believe the signal to dim comes via the canbus and not a direct wire.
Hope that helps.

Regards Graham
 
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