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Thread: Best "Wet Look" Car Polish

  1. #21
    FST Member yourdoinitwrong's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ItchyBlueBalls View Post
    Thanks for the info. Well I would like to really do all this stuff myself and for the most part I think I can, except for the waxing with a drill part. I for sure don't want to damage my car but I also don't want to pay the big bucks for someone else to do it, and really it's something I would be proud of. Any good how to videos out there? I'm most worried about how much pressure to apply and the technique to use. Appreciate all the advice!
    These aren't videos but still some good info. This is from the site where I buy my products:

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    I spend too much of my life on FST! Xedes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ItchyBlueBalls View Post
    Thanks for the info. Well I would like to really do all this stuff myself and for the most part I think I can, except for the waxing with a drill part. I for sure don't want to damage my car but I also don't want to pay the big bucks for someone else to do it, and really it's something I would be proud of. Any good how to videos out there? I'm most worried about how much pressure to apply and the technique to use. Appreciate all the advice!
    Here's another group of videos that should answer any questions. Download free detailing handbook guides, how-to videos, free wallpapers, and free screensavers!

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    I spend too much of my life on FST! OrangeRocket's Avatar
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    Thanks for the clarification on the process. I have just picked up my baby, should I be doing this now? Or is six months or so?

    Thanks for the input guys.

  5. #25
    I spend too much of my life on FST! Nubster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheRyan View Post
    Process is a bit off..

    Wash
    Clay
    Polish
    Sealant
    Glaze
    Wax

    Sealant should be the first thing you lay down after a polish. Sealants are polymer based and require bare paint to 'bond' with the clear coat. Glaze will then bring out the amazing shine. Wax will seal in the glaze and help the longevity of the sealant. Applying a sealant on top of a wax is pretty much a moot point because sealant won't bond to a carnauba wax or glaze. If you apply a sealant over a wax you're only going to get the longevity of the wax you put down first, usually 2-4 months. Where if you lay a sealant down, then a wax you'll get closer to 7-9 months of longevity depending upon the products you used.
    What are some decent off the shelf (auto parts store or big box store) products that will give an acceptable result without breaking the bank? Also, would I need to do all these steps to give my new car a nice look with a good layer of protection? I'm not going for a car show quality or professional detailer finish. Just something that looks good, better than using a cleaner/wax only and protects the finish.
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  6. #26
    FST Member jthess76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster View Post

    What are some decent off the shelf (auto parts store or big box store) products that will give an acceptable result without breaking the bank? Also, would I need to do all these steps to give my new car a nice look with a good layer of protection? I'm not going for a car show quality or professional detailer finish. Just something that looks good, better than using a cleaner/wax only and protects the finish.
    I have read online that frequent washes is the best way to protect the finish, but washing without damaging the finish is always a challenge.

    In my opinion, it really depends on how much time and effort you are willing to expend, versus how bad and/or contaminated the paint is. The bare minimum is wash with a good car wash (I prefer Meguiar's Ultimate Wash).

    Purchase and use a clean microfiber wash mitt. It is suggested that one use two buckets: One with the Meguiar's Ultimate, and one with just water. The point of the second rinse bucket is to reduce or eliminate sand, etc., which will scratch the paint if one isn't careful. Being mindful of the risk of scratches, and the cost or lack availability of a second bucket, be certain to rinse well if one doesn't have a second bucket.

    "Invest" in good products and take the time to do things right. I get my products at my local Wal-Mart as they have the best prices and selection. One should start out with a pack or two of microfiber towels. Wash them frequently, and throw them in the wash bin as soon as one suspects any contamination. Wash the microfiber towels with lots of hot water, then be sure to send them through at least one extra hot water cycle with no detergent and only vinegar if desired.

    If one prefers the local "do-it-yourself" touch-free spot free coin-op wash bay, and if this means more frequent washings, then use these by all means. I use the wheel cleaner only on the wheels, a quick pre-soak, high pressure soap, a thorough high pressure rinse, and (optional Triple Foam Conditioner, followed by a clear coat protect ant or spray wax). Most important step is a thorough spot free rinse. Optional but highly recommended is a careful hand dry utilizing aforementioned microfiber drying towel. I avoid using the foam brushes...but if one decides to use them be certain to clean any sand off them with high pressure soap and/or rinse, etc. Again, scratches are bad!

    Dry with a nice big soft clean microfiber drying towel. These are preferred over just a simple towel, or even chamois, as the deep pile to the fabric. A nice microfiber towel wash after each use is highly recommended.

    My recommendation is to next determine the level of contaminants left in the paint and embedded in the finish, clear coat, wax, polish, or whatever is sitting in or on whatever finish exists on said automobile. This is industrial fallout, sich as potentially razor sharp iron particles from freight trains: These perniciously sharp pointy things, along with other nasty contaminants, are not generally removed by washing. While argualy the best way to remove the iron particles specifically, is that one could use an acidic pre-wash on these iron particles, the simpler choice for more generalized contamination is a clay bar kit. Meguiar's makes a nice kit, and this is a good first step in removing these contaminants after washing, drying, and wiping away any loose contaminants with a quick detailer and clean microfiber towel.

    A Meguiar's Clay Bar kit is a nice way to safely remove contaminants. It should be used after washing, but before compound or polish, and before wax. The kit comes with a quick detailer spray. I suggest using this type of spray, such as Meguiar's Quick Detailer, which comes in the clay bar kit, along with a clean microfiber cloth, at bare minimum, before waxing. In other words, if one wants to skip the clay itself entirely, at minimum I suggest using some type of quick detailer spray before moving on the the next step, which if one wants to be hasty, this would be wax. I prefer to save the wax for a properly prepared surface for best results. At the very least use the spray detailer and polish to help get to the intensely deep high gloss you are looking for, although Meguiar's Ultimate Wax might give you what you are looking for without the polishing step. Try it and see! Be cautious about using too much pressure and be sure to work the clay a bit, cleaning a small section at a time. Don't want the contaminants scratching the finish.

    Meguiar's Ultimate Compound would be the next step, after the clay bar, but for newer or less neglected finishes, this step may not be necessary. My experience using these products allows me to advise this: Skip the compound at least initially but tackle a spot in the finish where there is some etching or water spot damage if, god forbid, these exist, with the gentler polish first. Hopefully good washing practices have not allowed such damage to occur yet. More minor light damage can be relatively easily corrected with a simple polish. If the polish doesn't remove these, should they exist, then don't skip the Ultimate Compound but be patient, work small sections in a shaded work area, and follow the directions closely. Don't let polish or compound dry on the finish. Apply, work gently, remove. Don't be afraid to use the quick detailer again if one is concerned about leaving this grit behind. It is best to remove it before waxing or polishing. If you do use compound, and it may be necessary, then be sure to follow with polish for best results before waxing.

    After Ultimate Compound, then Ultimate Polish. Again, skip Utimate Compound if it is not needed. It does take micrometers off the finish, so if it isn't necessary, by all means don't use it. The Ultimate Polish is less abrasive and has special, probably synthetic, polishing oils. Properly used, it "removes" light scratches from the finish. Again, work small sections at a time, apply, polish, remove. A quick spritz of Quick Detailer can ensure all the grit is off before locking it into the finish along with the wax (probably not a good idea to do this skipping the detailer "rinse" step).

    Surface should be looking darn good by now, so time to wax. The Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Synthetic Wax is good stuff and not ridiculously priced given the quality of this stuff. It should give you the deep gloss you are looking for with minimal effort compared to all other waxes I have used. It is not the longest lasting wax of those tested by a leading consumer reporting magazine that tests products, but scores very well on ease of use, glossy results, price, etc. I chose this particular prioduct because it seemed to be the best stuff I could find at my local Wal-Mart: It is the best and easiest to use wax that I have ever used. Manufacturer even claims it can be used in the sun. I already had Ultimate Compound sitting in my garage, so I wanted to buy products that were compatible with one another: Not all synthetic oils are compatible with one another, so to be safe I just figured I would stick with the Meguiar's Ultimate line of products. Two passes with the Ultimate Wax is recommended, then about 5 minutes of "curing" time, before removing with the black microfiber towel included in the Ultimate Wax "kit," so work on applying the next section while the first dries.

    In between washes, the Ultimate Spray Detailer and Ultimate Spray Wax keep things looking awesome. The car is easier to clean with a good coat of wax too.

    All work done by hand. Hours of it. :-)

    When asked about deep reflections and how to get there. Clean, polish, wax, shine. Don't be afraid to just start out with the hood or something, just be sure to seal up what one exposes.

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    Last edited by jthess76; 07-09-2013 at 11:57 AM.

  7. #27
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    Could you post this in Spanish?

  8. #28
    I spend too much of my life on FST! Nubster's Avatar
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    Good stuff. Thanks. I did end up grabbing some Meguiars goodies today at Walmart including a clay bar kit. I clayed the entire car but really it didn't need it since the car is new. I got very little debris off the paint. It was a good experience though. They were out of the Ultimate wax so I got the Gold. Seemed to work very well. I didn't get polish though. Maybe I'll grab some for the next time I do a full detail. I want to get a sealer as well. I figure this is my first new car and I'll likely have it for some time so I want to make sure it gets the best care I can afford, both mechanically and aesthetically. I wish I could afford a full Adams kit but that's just not in the budget. I may piece together some stuff over time. I do need to get a hold of some good quality microfiber. I got the best ones Walmart had today and they are much nicer than the cheap stuff but I figure there's even better out there for about the same amount of money. Besides, can one have too many MF towels around the house...lol
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  9. #29
    FST Member jthess76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STSTSTeve View Post
    Could you post this in Spanish?
    I am assuming that you are serious? I cut and pasted into an auto translator: I have no idea if this is an accurate translation. If you destroy your finish as a result of following these instructions in Spanish, then I am not responsible, and you were warned.

    He leído en línea que se lava con frecuencia es la mejor manera de proteger el acabado, pero el lavado sin dañar el acabado es siempre un reto.

    En mi opinión, lo que realmente depende de cuánto tiempo y esfuerzo que están dispuestos a gastar, frente a lo malo y / o contaminado la pintura. El mínimo es lavar con un lavado de coche bueno (yo prefiero último lavado de Meguiar).

    Compre y use un paño limpio de microfibra guante de lavado. Se sugiere que un uso dos cubos: uno con último del Meguiar, y uno sólo con agua. El punto de la segunda cubeta de enjuague es reducir o eliminar la arena, etc, que se raye la pintura si no se tiene cuidado. Ser consciente del riesgo de arañazos, y el costo o la falta de disponibilidad de un segundo cubo, asegúrese de enjuagar bien si uno no tiene un segundo cubo.

    "Invertir" en buenos productos y tomar el tiempo para hacer las cosas bien. Puedo recibir mis productos en mi local de Wal-Mart, ya que tienen los mejores precios y la selección. Uno debe comenzar con un paquete o dos de toallas de microfibra. Lave con frecuencia, y los echan en el contenedor de lavado tan pronto como se sospecha cualquier contaminación. Lavar las toallas de microfibra, con un montón de agua caliente, a continuación, asegúrese de enviarlos a través de al menos un ciclo de agua caliente adicional sin detergente y sólo vinagre si se desea.

    Si se prefiere el local "do-it-yourself" punto sin contacto libre coin-op recinto de lavado, y si esto significa lavados más frecuentes, a continuación, utilizar estos por todos los medios. Yo uso el limpiador de ruedas sólo en las ruedas, un pre-remojo, jabón de alta presión rápida, una alta presión de enjuague a fondo, y (opcional Acondicionador Triple espuma, seguido por una capa transparente proteger hormiga o cera de pulverización). El paso más importante es un lugar profundo enjuague libre. Opcional pero muy recomendable es una seca las manos cuidadosamente utilizando mencionada toalla de microfibra de secado. Evito el uso de los cepillos de espuma ... pero si uno decide usarlos asegúrese de limpiar la arena de encima con un jabón de alta presión y / o enjuague, etc Una vez más, los rasguños son malos!

    Secar con un bonito limpio y suave microfibra toalla de secado grande. Estos son preferidos sobre sólo una toalla sencilla, o incluso gamuza, como la profunda pila a la tela. Una buena microfibra lavado toalla después de cada uso es muy recomendable.

    Mi recomendación es para determinar el próximo nivel de contaminantes que quedan en la pintura y se incluyeron en el acabado, barniz, cera, pulir, o lo que está sentado en o en cualquier acabado que existe en dicho automóvil. Se trata de consecuencias industrial, sich como partículas potencialmente afeitar hierro afilados de los trenes de mercancías: Estas cosas puntiagudas perniciosamente agudos, junto con otros contaminantes desagradables, no se eliminan generalmente mediante lavado. Mientras argualy la mejor manera de eliminar las partículas de hierro específicamente, es que se podría utilizar un pre-lavado ácido en estas partículas de hierro, la elección más simple para la contaminación más generalizada es un kit de barra de arcilla. Meguiar s hace un buen equipo, y este es un buen primer paso en la eliminación de estos contaminantes después del lavado, secado y enjugándose los contaminantes sueltos con un detallista rápido y toalla de microfibra limpia.

    Kit Bar Clay A Meguiar es una buena manera de eliminar de forma segura los contaminantes. Se debe usar después del lavado, pero antes de compuesto o pulimento, y antes de la cera. El kit viene con un spray detallista rápido. Sugiero usar este tipo de aerosol, tales como Meguiar Quick Detailer, que viene en el kit de barra de la arcilla, junto con un paño de microfibra limpio, al mínimo, antes de la depilación. En otras palabras, si se quiere saltar la arcilla por completo, como mínimo, se sugiere emplear algún tipo de rápida aerosol detallista antes de pasar al siguiente paso, el cual, si se quiere ser apresurada, esto sería cera. Yo prefiero para guardar la cera para una superficie adecuadamente preparada para los mejores resultados. Por lo menos el uso del detallista pulverización y pulido para ayudar a llegar a la glosa intensamente profundos alta que está buscando, aunque Cera Ultimate Meguiar podría darle lo que busca sin la etapa de pulido. Pruébalo y verás!

    Compuesto de Ultimate Meguiar sería el siguiente paso, después de la barra de la arcilla, pero para los acabados nuevos o menos olvidado, quizás no sea necesario este paso. Mi experiencia en el uso de estos productos permite que yo aconsejo lo siguiente: Pasar el compuesto, al menos al principio, pero frente a un puesto en la final, donde hay algo de grabado o daños por agua de contado si, Dios no lo quiera, que existan, con el esmalte suave primero. Esperemos que las buenas prácticas de lavado no han permitido que los daños que se produzca todavía. Daño de la luz más leve puede ser relativamente fácil de corregir con una simple pulido. Si el esmalte no elimina estos, en caso de existir, entonces no te pierdas el compuesto final, pero ser paciente, trabajar pequeñas secciones en un área de trabajo con sombra, y siga las instrucciones cuidadosamente. No deje de uñas o compuesto seco en el final. Aplicar, trabajar con cuidado, quitar. No tenga miedo de usar la rápida detallista nuevo si uno se preocupa por dejar este grano atrás. Lo mejor es quitarlo antes de encerar o pulir. Si usted hace uso de compuesto, y puede ser necesario, a continuación, asegúrese de seguir con el pulimento para obtener los mejores resultados antes de la depilación.

    Después Ultimate Compound, entonces polaca Último. Una vez más, omita Utimate compuesto si no es necesario. Sin embargo, toma micrómetros de la meta, así que si no es necesario, por todos los medios no lo use. El polaco último es menos abrasivo y tiene aceites de pulido especiales, probablemente sintético. Usada apropiadamente, "elimina" rasguños de la meta. Una vez más, hacer pequeñas secciones a la vez, aplicar, pulir, eliminar. Una rápida chorrito de Quick Detailer puede asegurar todo el grano esté apagado antes de cerrar en el final, junto con la cera (probablemente no es una buena idea hacer esto evitando el paso detallista "enjuagar").

    La superficie debe estar buscando darn bueno por ahora, para el momento de la cera. Último cera sintética líquida del Meguiar es lo bueno y no ridículamente caro dada la calidad de estas cosas. Debe darle el brillo profundo que busca con el mínimo esfuerzo en comparación con todos los demás ceras que he utilizado. No es la cera de más larga duración de los evaluados por una importante revista de informes de los consumidores que pone a prueba los productos, pero califica muy bien en la facilidad de uso, resultados brillantes, el precio, etc Elegí este prioduct particular porque parecía ser la mejor cosa que podría encontrar en mi local de Wal-Mart: Es el mejor y más fácil de usar cera que he utilizado siempre. Fabricante incluso afirma que puede ser utilizado en el sol. Yo ya había compuesto último sentado en mi garaje, así que quería comprar productos que eran compatibles entre sí: No todos los aceites sintéticos son compatibles entre sí, por lo que es seguro me imaginé que se quedaría con la línea definitiva del Meguiar de productos . Dos pases con la cera último se recomienda, a continuación, alrededor de 5 minutos de tiempo de "curado", antes de quitar con la toalla de microfibra negro incluido en la cera último "kit", por lo que trabajar en la aplicación de la siguiente sección, mientras que los primeros se seca.

    De entre los mismos, el Último spray Detailer y Ultimate spray Cera mantener las cosas de mirada impresionante. El coche es más fácil de limpiar con una buena capa de cera también.

    Todo el trabajo hecho a mano. Horas de ella. :-)

    Cuando se le preguntó acerca de reflexiones profundas y cómo llegar allí. Limpiar, pulir, cera, brillo. No tengas miedo de simplemente comenzar con la capucha o algo así, sólo asegúrese de cerrar bien lo que se expone.
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  10. #30
    FST Member jthess76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1fastang View Post
    Using a polishing wheel will speed things up if you know how to use one. You can very easily damage a paint job and I've seen it done before. With that in mind I would recommend hand polish and waxing. I'm not sure where using a drill was recommended but "Don't" use a drill ever on paint. a polishing wheel oscillates, which a drill will only spin and at a high rate of speed not meant for polishing.
    To clarify: Meguiar's makes a 'drill attached' or "DA" polisher which also happens to be 'dual action'. My understanding is that this is a new product that turns the home drill into a proper polishing apparatus. I haven't tried it because they are almost $60 - I think it is certainly safer to go with the hand polish and wax, especially when first using a particular product which can cut into the finish.

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