Big Turbo Build - The Grim Sleeper
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Thread: Big Turbo Build - The Grim Sleeper

  1. #1
    FST Senior Member Judas's Avatar
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    Big Turbo Build - The Grim Sleeper

    The purpose of this thread is to give new members or people just now working on their cars a chance to discuss and learn about a big turbo build in real time, rather than simply being ignored, or told to go read through hundreds of pages of 3-year-old threads. My long term goal with the car is to safely max out the GTX2867r in the ballpark of ~440whp. My goal with this thread is to be active and stay on top of people's questions so that everyone gets the information they need, when they need it. Hopefully this thread can be as useful to you guys as those threads that allowed me to learn everything I needed to properly build a deceptively powerful car.

    Now, to business. In chronological order:

    Pre-Thread build...
    June 2013: Car purchased
    May 2014: cp-e Intake | DP | CBE | stg 2 RMM --- Steeda OTS 94 pump gas tune
    May 2015: 19"x8.5" TSW Nurburgring (Gunmetal)

    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Grim Sleeper build Thread...
    April 2016:
    Garrett ATP GTX2867r
    cp-e FMIC | Hot Pipe | Cold Pipe | Tial Q BOV
    Boomba Stg 2 Catch Can | Short Throw Shifter | Shifter Bushings | Transmission Cable Bushings
    COBB AP V3 - STRATIFIED Custom

    Next on the list... Stay tuned
    Summer 2016 - Summer 2017
    - WMI
    - LSD
    - Coilovers
    - Clutch Kit

    Pics of the build parts coming next.
    Last edited by Judas; 05-22-2016 at 11:01 PM.
    joostertag and Ruined14 like this.
    cp-e CBE | DP | RMM | Intake | Symposer Delete | ColdPipe [Tial BOV] | HotPipe | FMIC
    Boomba Short Throw | Shifter Bushings | Trans. Line Bushings | Catch Can
    MassiveSpeed F & R Endlinks | Toe Arms | Camber Arms
    TSW 19" Gunmetal Nurburgring
    Stratified Custom Tune | GA
    ST Suspension RSB
    Garrett GTX2867r
    CoolingMist WMI
    Hawk F & R HP+
    KW V3 Coilovers
    NGK LTR7IX-11
    ________________
    Practice Is Progress
    __________
    Build Thread --> Grim Sleeper

  2. #2
    FST Senior Member Judas's Avatar
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    The first thing that got built was 5 high quality wooden cribb blocks to use as tire stands. I took one to a local load testing facility and had them destroyed, and the load was recorded up to failure of the first support beam.

    The block held over 26,000lbs before a single 2x4 fractured. The 2013 Ford Focus is supported by 4 of these, and weighs ~3200 lbs.

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    Focus Dave likes this.
    cp-e CBE | DP | RMM | Intake | Symposer Delete | ColdPipe [Tial BOV] | HotPipe | FMIC
    Boomba Short Throw | Shifter Bushings | Trans. Line Bushings | Catch Can
    MassiveSpeed F & R Endlinks | Toe Arms | Camber Arms
    TSW 19" Gunmetal Nurburgring
    Stratified Custom Tune | GA
    ST Suspension RSB
    Garrett GTX2867r
    CoolingMist WMI
    Hawk F & R HP+
    KW V3 Coilovers
    NGK LTR7IX-11
    ________________
    Practice Is Progress
    __________
    Build Thread --> Grim Sleeper

  3. #3
    FST Senior Member Judas's Avatar
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    The car was initially put up on jack stands, then raised up onto the wood blocks. The blocks raise the tires 10.5" off the ground.Name:  IMG_1842.jpg
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    Ruined14 likes this.
    cp-e CBE | DP | RMM | Intake | Symposer Delete | ColdPipe [Tial BOV] | HotPipe | FMIC
    Boomba Short Throw | Shifter Bushings | Trans. Line Bushings | Catch Can
    MassiveSpeed F & R Endlinks | Toe Arms | Camber Arms
    TSW 19" Gunmetal Nurburgring
    Stratified Custom Tune | GA
    ST Suspension RSB
    Garrett GTX2867r
    CoolingMist WMI
    Hawk F & R HP+
    KW V3 Coilovers
    NGK LTR7IX-11
    ________________
    Practice Is Progress
    __________
    Build Thread --> Grim Sleeper

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    FST Senior Member Judas's Avatar
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    First the car was torn apart:

    I'm going to try to post pictures that aren't already posted in several other threads. Hopefully this minimizes page count from clutter and repetition.

    There are tutorial threads and videos of each of these, just ask and I will reference them.

    1. Remove underside cover
    2. Remove bumper
    3. Remove Active Grill Shutter (does not go back into car once cp-e FMIC is installed)
    4. Remove intake and airbox
    5. Remove Intercooler
    6. Remove hot pipe and cold pipe
    7. Label boost controller hoses and remove boost controller
    8. Remove stock turbo
    9. Remove stock shifter (requires removal of center console)

    Using labelled ziplock bags or tupperwares is a must for a scope of work like this. Many nuts and bolts come off, some go back on, some don't, try to keep track and follow the instructions from the parts (online for Boomba.. cp-e ships the instructions).

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    The hard hoses from the boost controller were a mess so I ended up replacing each of them with 7/32" ID hose (be careful which OD you choose or your hose clamps won't quite bite hard enough, either way try to recondition your hose clamps so that they bite like they did initially, or buy new ones.) I capped off the motor-top solenoid nipple for the BPV hose, which initially went from the solenoid atop the engine, down into the nipple on the BPV which is integrated into the stock turbo. The GTX2867r has an integrated wastegate, but does not have an integrated BPV, which is why in this build a Tial Q BOV is installed in the cp-e cold pipe (super convenient).

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    Last edited by Judas; 04-23-2016 at 01:15 PM.
    cp-e CBE | DP | RMM | Intake | Symposer Delete | ColdPipe [Tial BOV] | HotPipe | FMIC
    Boomba Short Throw | Shifter Bushings | Trans. Line Bushings | Catch Can
    MassiveSpeed F & R Endlinks | Toe Arms | Camber Arms
    TSW 19" Gunmetal Nurburgring
    Stratified Custom Tune | GA
    ST Suspension RSB
    Garrett GTX2867r
    CoolingMist WMI
    Hawk F & R HP+
    KW V3 Coilovers
    NGK LTR7IX-11
    ________________
    Practice Is Progress
    __________
    Build Thread --> Grim Sleeper

  6. #5
    FST Senior Member Judas's Avatar
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    This shows the capped off BPV nipple on the motor-top solenoid. Picture is out of focus, but you can see the cap on the bottom right hand side of the solenoid.

    Some people have used this as their vacuum source for their BOV, but I chose to use the cp-e Symposer Delete plate with vacuum source nipple. Super simple install, takes 5 minutes to uninstall the sound symposer, and even less to bolt on the block plate. *I was slightly disappointed that the nipple that came with the block plate was undersized in the OD, it was a 3/16" nipple at the fat rim, and even smaller in nipple OD, where the ID of the hoses all over the boost controller and solenoids are 7/32" ID. I had to purchase some smaller ID tubing, 5/32" ID or smaller for a tight fit, then spliced that to the 7/32" ID hose (this required a smaller hose clamp so I bought a very small worm clamp)

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    Last edited by Judas; 04-23-2016 at 01:16 PM.
    cp-e CBE | DP | RMM | Intake | Symposer Delete | ColdPipe [Tial BOV] | HotPipe | FMIC
    Boomba Short Throw | Shifter Bushings | Trans. Line Bushings | Catch Can
    MassiveSpeed F & R Endlinks | Toe Arms | Camber Arms
    TSW 19" Gunmetal Nurburgring
    Stratified Custom Tune | GA
    ST Suspension RSB
    Garrett GTX2867r
    CoolingMist WMI
    Hawk F & R HP+
    KW V3 Coilovers
    NGK LTR7IX-11
    ________________
    Practice Is Progress
    __________
    Build Thread --> Grim Sleeper

  7. #6
    FST Senior Member Judas's Avatar
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    In the process of removing the stock turbo, you will definitely want to drain your coolant, and changing your oil and filter at the same time is a good idea. I simply drained the coolant and refilled using Ford's prediluted orange coolant. You do not want to mix different types or colors of coolants, nor do you want to over-concentrate your coolant by draining a diluted mixture and refilling with a concentrated coolant. Keep in mind that when you drain your coolant from your radiator (not to be confused with a flush), you will likely get 40-50% of the total coolant volume out of the system, the remainder is in the heater block and hoses/lines. This means that you only need roughly 3 quarts or so if you are simply draining the rad and refilling, vs roughly 6 quarts if you have done a full flush (plenty of videos on youtube, join the never-ending debate about distilled vs garden hose water if you're into that).

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    As for the oil, I used Mobil 1 5W30 Synthetic, and M1-209 filter. Draining the oil is fairly straight forward, look for Jason Georgievsky's videos, he's a legend. Just make sure that you lubricate the seal of the new filter, and try not to over-torque the drain plug, otherwise you'll risk stripping the threads or worse on aluminum block.

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    Lastly, the shifter and transmission cable linkages/housings/brackets were removed. This ended up being the first thing that went onto the car, very straightforward, videos on youtube for both by the legendary Jason Georgievsky (is he a focusst.org member? no idea).

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    Next was the turbo. There is quite alot to this compared to the rest of these parts that got installed last weekend. I would recommend the 27 minute long youtube video posted by PonyParts (Spool Tuning). Excellent walkthrough of everything from removing the underside to routing the controller hoses, to bolting on the turbo and its hoses. There are essentially 4 hoses: Coolant supply and return, oil supply and return. Some people have had trouble getting the coolant return hose off from the driver side of the engine, beneath the HPFP, but it's really not as bad as it sounds. I used the high quality silicone hose supplied by ATP and had no trouble, luckily.

    *You will be re-using the stock oil drain line (the short hard line), and the stock turbo/DP V-band clamp (this can be seized up, soak with Liquid Wrench).

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    Things to look out for:

    1. BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVER-TORQUE YOUR FITTINGS, ESPECIALLY THOSE THREADED INTO YOUR ALUMINUM BLOCK. It's much easier to tighten after the fact to solve a small coolant or oil leak than it is to solve a cracked block or stripped threads. For this reason, once you are done, I would recommend driving around without re-installing the underside cover for a week or so, so that you can monitor the car for leaks. Try to park in a dry parking spot (once you start monitoring for leaks you'll notice that nearly every parking space in the world is covered in fluid leaks), and check it when you next pull out of it. Of course, immediately after the install you'll want to idle the car for 20-30 minutes and monitor for leaks before you even lower the car down to the ground.

    2. You may want to put some form of heat protection (I used DEI 3/4" sheathing fastened with a few zip ties) on your lines or the turbo itself, as the turbine side (exhaust side) is very hot, and is quite insulated in the back of the engine where it is. The boost controller will likely end up very nearby aswell. Lots of clutter and heat and rubbing is a recipe for a headache down the road. I used some heat sheating for the turbo lines, because they cross right over the turbine. The heat protection debate is endless and both sides have armies that are thousands strong and full of "experts". Do some research, do what you choose is best for you. Drink Pepsi, or drink Coke, it's your car.

    3. PRIMING YOUR TURBO WITH FLUIDS - We are lucky, on our car, this is very straight forward. Once you are all bolted on and ready to fire it up and slam the throttle to record a gnarley video for your friends on Facebook.... DON'T... Your turbo is completely dry (relatively speaking), and NEEDS to be primed with coolant and oil BEFORE you get all horny to start filming the Fast and Furious 17.5. To do this, simply take a deep breath, sit in your cockpit, press in the clutch AND the gas pedal all the way to the floor, then press the START/STOP button, and your engine will turnover without fuel injection. Do this for about 10-20 seconds, then press the START/STOP button to quit, and release the pedals.

    Stratified Automotive has some great info and tutorials on their website, I would highly recommend checking it out (go to the website, look for reading material, read said material, you will not regret learning from it). In particular, they have a guide for a cylinder compression test, which also requires the cranking of your engine without fuel injection, so you can get your step by step guide there.

    4. Double check your boost controller hose routing/plumbing. Incorrect controller plumbing can result in strange behavior from the engine when you try to boost, double check it to be sure it's correct.

    This is a poor image, but it's sourced from an excellent How-To by EdgeAutosports here in the forums, just search google for it (fantastic customer service, Alan and Marlin were super helpful when it came time to put in the order).

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    5. Double check your turbo line and boost controller hose routing to ensure that you are not dangling any lines/holes directly on a hot surface, or pinched between tight surfaces. Damage to these lines will undoubtedly take you out of commission quickly and cause a real headache. Zip ties are an easy way to fasten your lines/hoses out of harms way. I replaced each hose from the boost controller with new, longer hoses so that there was no interference between all of the tightly held components back in that passenger side corner where the turbo and controller are.

    6. Do not use the stock turbo gasket at the exhaust headifold (it tends to hang back on the studs), make sure you have your fire ring in place (our cars don't really have an exhaust manifold, we are referencing where the four studs are that your secure the turbo onto the engine block with 4 nuts)

    7. Tighten your turbo hose fittings in a way so that the 90* and 45* fittings end up pointing away in a safe direction, and aren't twisted up as a result.

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    Last edited by Judas; 04-23-2016 at 01:33 PM.
    cp-e CBE | DP | RMM | Intake | Symposer Delete | ColdPipe [Tial BOV] | HotPipe | FMIC
    Boomba Short Throw | Shifter Bushings | Trans. Line Bushings | Catch Can
    MassiveSpeed F & R Endlinks | Toe Arms | Camber Arms
    TSW 19" Gunmetal Nurburgring
    Stratified Custom Tune | GA
    ST Suspension RSB
    Garrett GTX2867r
    CoolingMist WMI
    Hawk F & R HP+
    KW V3 Coilovers
    NGK LTR7IX-11
    ________________
    Practice Is Progress
    __________
    Build Thread --> Grim Sleeper

  8. #7
    FST Senior Member Judas's Avatar
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    DEI Heat Sheathing (Too much data stored in previous post, couldn't attach this file above)

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    The piping, BOV, symposer delete plate and FMIC were up next. The passenger side of the radiator support hanger was unbolted and I drilled out the rivet, this made fitting the FMIC into place with the installed brackets super simple. When done, the two bolts were put back into the rad support, the rivet is casualty #1. See PonyParts' (Spool Tuning) videos for intercooler installs on youtube, in one of them they show how to release the passenger side of the rad support.

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    As you can imagine, and as you are likely to have read in 10 different places online, the cp-e FMIC is enormous, and it's totally worth it. In each of my first 20 or so WOT datalogs I saw nothing higher than a 2* or 3* difference between charge temp and ambient. Unreal. For an air to air heat exchanger it's impressive, it does exactly what you need it to. Props to the gang at cp-e. Because I fit it with both hot and cold pipes from cp-e, there were absolutely no fitment issues whatsoever, although if you have piping from other vendors, you may end up doing some minor McGivery in cutting and fitting elbows to get it right. This isn't an issue, so don't shy away from this FMIC for that reason, it's quite easy to hack off an inch or a bend and buy a silicone elbow and some v-band or worm clamps at the auto parts store. The cp-e piping comes with high quality clamps to replace the stock worm clamps, which are known to blow off under high boost.

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    I was anticipating the BOV to come with cp-e's yellow custom spring with the Exhale kit, so I ordered the plain spring from Edge, only to find out that the spring inside is also plain... Haven't received a response from Edge yet about this, although for $28 for the extra spring I'm not too rattled about it. I changed the springs anyway, because that way I know I put a 10psi spring inside, where I have no idea if the initial spring was actually 10psi, or if it was a "cp-e custom yellow" spring that they stopped painting... Anyone?
    Last edited by Judas; 04-23-2016 at 01:29 PM.
    cp-e CBE | DP | RMM | Intake | Symposer Delete | ColdPipe [Tial BOV] | HotPipe | FMIC
    Boomba Short Throw | Shifter Bushings | Trans. Line Bushings | Catch Can
    MassiveSpeed F & R Endlinks | Toe Arms | Camber Arms
    TSW 19" Gunmetal Nurburgring
    Stratified Custom Tune | GA
    ST Suspension RSB
    Garrett GTX2867r
    CoolingMist WMI
    Hawk F & R HP+
    KW V3 Coilovers
    NGK LTR7IX-11
    ________________
    Practice Is Progress
    __________
    Build Thread --> Grim Sleeper

  9. #8
    I spend too much of my life on FST! Oomps's Avatar
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    Subbed, look forward to more awesomeness. I really like the load test you did, definitely make some now.

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

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    FST Senior Member Judas's Avatar
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    Getting the piping onto turbo and manifold is no issue, just make sure you orient your clamps in a way that you'll be able to reach them and fasten them once you've test fitted everything together.

    I would strongly recommend installing the BOV BEFORE you install the cold pipe. Some guys have had real issues trying to fit the BOV on afterwards. With the cp-e gear, it's totally a tight fit, but there is no rubbing. I have seen some installs where the vacuum nipple on the top of the BOV is rubbing hard against the A/C compressor. This would be a huge red flag for me because my car has plenty of vibration at low rpm, and even more at high rpm and this could lead to some hassle down the road if left unchecked.

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    With the intercooler and piping/BOV installed, that wrapped up this phase of the build. Here are some things I haven't yet mentioned that could be helpful:

    1. I replaced the downpipe to CBE gasket with a new one from cp-e, which I would recommend (had an extra one from the DP/CBE install in 2014).
    2. Because it had been a couple of years since the exhaust went on, the bolts there and certainly the four nuts holding the turbo to the exhaust headifold were quite seized up, so I was quite glad that I soaked them in Liquid Wrench for a few minutes before attempting to remove them. The last thing you want is to snap a bolt, stud, or seize up a nut, 100% chance that'll make for a long day if not a long month/year.
    3. Be patient with this stuff, do it once, do it right.

    Now, the guys at Stratified hooked me up with a BT base tune to get me driving last minute (on a saturday or sunday no less, hugely bailed me out because all I had at the time was COBB OTS 93 Stage 3 tune).

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    Will add reviews of these parts and the custom tuning process, along with planned tweaks to fix some rubbing of the intake with the HPFP, and pics of the 2014 build parts in a couple hours. Stand by.
    cp-e CBE | DP | RMM | Intake | Symposer Delete | ColdPipe [Tial BOV] | HotPipe | FMIC
    Boomba Short Throw | Shifter Bushings | Trans. Line Bushings | Catch Can
    MassiveSpeed F & R Endlinks | Toe Arms | Camber Arms
    TSW 19" Gunmetal Nurburgring
    Stratified Custom Tune | GA
    ST Suspension RSB
    Garrett GTX2867r
    CoolingMist WMI
    Hawk F & R HP+
    KW V3 Coilovers
    NGK LTR7IX-11
    ________________
    Practice Is Progress
    __________
    Build Thread --> Grim Sleeper

  11. #10
    FST Senior Member Judas's Avatar
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    Pics of the intake, DP, CBE, RMM:

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    Reviews:

    RMM - Completely eliminates wheel hop, even with BT.
    CBE - Loud but deep rumble, gargling noise at low rpm, absolutely not cheap fart can sound. Drone on highway at 3000rpm+ definitely noticeable. You NEED to delete your symposer or it is unbearably loud in the cabin.
    DP - Catless - Great sound, noticeably reduced backpressure on turbo, a must have for a BT build (3" pipe).
    Intake - Allows sound of turbo spool and BOV/BPV to become much more audible, love it.
    Wheels - Stock bolt pattern 5x108 so no adapter needed, has small spacers for wheel hub fit. Good look on this car.

    New parts reviews next.
    Last edited by Judas; 04-23-2016 at 10:27 AM.
    cp-e CBE | DP | RMM | Intake | Symposer Delete | ColdPipe [Tial BOV] | HotPipe | FMIC
    Boomba Short Throw | Shifter Bushings | Trans. Line Bushings | Catch Can
    MassiveSpeed F & R Endlinks | Toe Arms | Camber Arms
    TSW 19" Gunmetal Nurburgring
    Stratified Custom Tune | GA
    ST Suspension RSB
    Garrett GTX2867r
    CoolingMist WMI
    Hawk F & R HP+
    KW V3 Coilovers
    NGK LTR7IX-11
    ________________
    Practice Is Progress
    __________
    Build Thread --> Grim Sleeper

 

 
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