UnfocusedST's 2013 ST2 build.
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Thread: UnfocusedST's 2013 ST2 build.

  1. #1
    Supporting Member UnfocusedST's Avatar
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    UnfocusedST's 2013 ST2 build.



    First a little bit about me. I'm 31 married with two kids. I started getting into cars while in the Navy which I served for almost eight years. Also about the same time I got into auto x. This is my second Ford Focus. My first one was a 2005 ZX4 SE. I did all sorts of work to that one including turbo charging it. Traded that Focus off for my 2007 Ford Edge which is now my wife's car. I was researching an 08 Subaru STi and I found out we finally got a proper Focus ST since first gen ST in the state was a let down compared to the European ST. Technically it was the second gen ST since the first was renamed SVT for the states with minor differences. I've been part of the focus community for many years now and bring some decent knowledge with that. I've been debating about doing a build thread for along time now. I figured I'd share what I've done and plan to do to my Focus ST. I also wanted a place to put my review of parts that I'm using. Below are my current mods. I will update this list as I update the car. Sponsored by Custom Performance Engineering. Click the links below to jump to the post within this thread for the parts listed.

    Engine:
    Cp-e αIntake Intake
    Cp-e QKspl Downpipe
    Cp-e Austenite 3″ Dual Cat Back Exhaust
    Cp-e Exhale Tial BOV Kit
    Cp-e Hotcharge Pipe
    Cp-e BlockD symposer delete
    Cp-e ΔCore Front Mount Intercooler
    Cp-e xFlex Rear Motor Mount Stage2
    Cp-e xFlex Driver Side Motor Mount
    Cp-e xFlex Passanger Side Motor Mount
    Ecoboost Mustang 2.3L Throttle Body
    Cobb Accessport V3 with stratified flash tune
    Justin Performance Center Clutch Line
    Cobb hanger bushings
    Boomba Racing Stage 2 Catch Can
    JLT air/oil separator
    Boomba Racing transmission bushings
    FSWerks shift kit
    Redline tuning hood struts
    Boosted Designs Battery Tie Down
    Painted Engine Cover
    Steeda Hood Release
    Boomba Oil Cap
    Boomba Brake Fluid Reservoir/Coolant Tank Reservoir Caps
    Boomba Dip Stick Handle

    Interior:
    Build Number
    Boomba Racing short shifter
    Boomba Racing shifter bushings
    Anarchy Motive Custom Shift Knob
    Redline custom shift boot
    Euro Start Button
    Defi gauges to replace factory pod
    Boosted Designs dead pedal
    Weather Tech front, rear and hatch floor mats
    2014 Focus ST sliding driver side visor
    Garageline gas pedal spacer
    Covercraft Custom Sunscreen

    Exterior:
    Enkei TX-5 18X8 wheels wrapped in Goodyear F1 Asymmetric 2 235/40/18
    Stock Snowflake wheels wrapped in Bridgestone Blizzak LM60 245/40/18
    Rally Armor Mud Flaps
    Octane Academy badges
    Perrin 2" shorty antenna
    Custom ecobeast badge
    Beeks Deep Dish Grill
    Craig's Custom Mustang Bracket for Focus ST
    Rally Innovations 3 Piece Aluminum Splitter
    Rally Innovations Side Splitters

    Suspension & Brakes:
    YCW Reference Coilovers
    5k Front Springs 7K Rear Springs
    Strano Rear Sway Bar
    Massive Speed System Camber Arms
    Massive Speed System Toe Arms
    Massive Speed System Rear Sway Bar Endlinks
    Hawk HPS brake pads front and rear
    RS Brake Air Guides
    StopTech Slotted Rotors
    TCE stainless steel brake lines
    Painted Brake Calipers

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    Last edited by UnfocusedST; 03-08-2017 at 09:28 AM.
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  2. #2
    Supporting Member UnfocusedST's Avatar
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    I chose the cp-e intake for a couple reasons. First I wanted to red intake to go with my blue focus. The color offset looks good to me. The second I wanted an air box, but a better flowing one that stock. Now saying that the stock airbox isn't horrible. The factory piping however has a few divots that add turbulence to the air flow. So wanted to fix that. I also wanted something that worked with my FRPP cold air intake that I previously installed. Looked and many intakes and the cp-e stuck out to me. Looked at all the reviews and seen nothing but great things. So I picked one up. When it came time to installing the intake two things took the longest. One was removing the factory intake from the turbo and attaching the cp-e to the same point. It's a tight fit but I was able to get my arm down there. The second was attaching the velocity stack which really didn't take much time. For my install I didn't have to remove the cowl. I was able to sneak the pipe down to where it would rest with it in place. The felt part has enough give to push past. Now I did come across one snag. The bolt provided to hold the intake away from the HPFP I found was too short and popped out easily. So I spent the $0.60 and bought a slightly longer one. Not a huge deal at all really. All in all I'm very happy with this intake and haven't looked back. The instructions were spot on at the parts can sealed and separated to make the job super easy.



    Here is the bolt I mentioned.


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    Last edited by UnfocusedST; 07-25-2015 at 07:48 PM.

  3. #3
    Supporting Member UnfocusedST's Avatar
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    I decided to purchase the cp-e charge pipes for a couple reasons. First I wanted some nice charge pipes that wouldn't pop off. My stock ones never did but I didn't want to take the chance. The second I wanted a better valve that the stock compressor regulation valve that comes with the car since my failed and the turbo had to be replaced.



    Now I tried the turbosmart dual port diverter valve and didn't care for the sound. I continued my search and found out cp-e made an easy was to run the TiAL bov. Did some research and found out this is one of the best valves on the market. So I grabbed one of their exhale kits and hotcharge pipes. I decided to also replace my factory intercooler at the same time. I decided to help my budget at grab a cxracing intercooler and find a way to mount it up my self. Thanks to a forum member I was able to get my hands on some brackets based on the cxracing intercooler kit they have for the Focus ST.



    I did this installed over a couple days. First day I installed the charges pipes. The hotcharge pipe was super easy. The exhale kit gave me some issues. I was able to get the pipe in place for the most part exhaust the couple to the throttle body. I fought with this for a bit just because of the tight room. Finally got the pipe in place so I then attached the valve. Again cp-e fitment is spot on.




    Now since the intercooler is a DIY the install did take me a bit. The hardest part was lining everything up. I picked up the ATP sensor elbow and a cxracing elbow with couplers and t bolt clamps. These along with the custom brackets made the install go fairly easy.








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  5. #4
    Supporting Member UnfocusedST's Avatar
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    I always thought the stock exhaust was too quiet for a performance car. Also my active sound symposer never like to work properly especially when I got cold out. So first I decided to go with the MBRP catback exhaust. I loved the sound it made. Also didn't see all the drone that some mention. The only time I noticed was at highway speeds going up hill. Also I have noticed with the back seats down and/or the hatch cover off the exhaust is more noticable. With that said for the most part I was happy. The problem I had was filament. During the install we had to cut down the hanger that goes over the rear cross member. It was too long and hitting. The second part was the exhaust kept moving to the right. Some cobb exhaust hangers took care of that. I then was tired of the exhaust tips sticking too far out. Another simple fix. I took the tips off since they slip on and cut about and inch off the piping. The looked much better to me and my leg long longer gets burns while loading and unloading the hatch area. Now with that said I decided to swap out the entire exhaust system. I went for a full turboback exhaust. Yes I could have simply swapped downpipes and been done. However I'd been eyeballing the cp-e Austenite catback. I also picked up their catless downpipe at the same time. As cp-e give different exhaust tip options I went with their Titan finish. It give a great matte finish. I didn't want shiny exhaust tips since they can be a pain to keep clean



    So first thing was the pull off the MBRP catback. Once that was out of the way I went after the downpipe. The hardest part about the downpipe pipe was the sensor plugs. After fighting with them I was able to get them out. The downpipe then came out without a fight.



    I decided to install the defouler for the rear O2 sensor for when I decide to remove my tune for whatever reason.



    The hardest part of the downpipe install was getting the sensors reconnected. I just couldn't get this done. So I removed the battery box and was able to easily get my hands back there and plug them in. Just look at how much room there is without the box in the way. Also I did pulled on the end that bolts up to the catback to see if there was any noise. The hangers did hit the front crossmember. I fixed this by loosening the rear clamp and slightly sliding the section out to make clearance.



    The next step was to get the new catback installed. First I decided to take a comparison picture of the stock, MBRP and cp-e catbacks.



    After that was done I started bolting everything up. I do recommend so silicone spray especially if your using upgraded hangar bushings. The cobb ones are really stiff.



    Well after everything was installed I got cleaned up. Yes I didn't start the car first. I was horribly filthy and didn't want to get that dirt in my car. So finally off for a test drive. The car sounded great. There is a noticeable exhaust note change at 3.5K rpms. It's like the exhaust keeps getting louder, then it just changes. Personally I like the change. Now the really test. Does it drone? Well I'm not sure about drone but cruising at 80mph on I90 (yes that's the speed limit) it does get loud going up hill. Now if I went with the high low cat I'm sure it wouldn't get that loud. As for crying at 65mph and below I couldn't believe how quiet a catless system could be. I only really hear it during exceleration. A week after installing the turboback exhaust I went to one of our auto x competitions. After every run I had people coming up to my car just loving the exhaust note. I was afraid it was going to be too loud and noone thought so. So I'm very happy with this exhaust. I have not had any fitment issues yet.

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  6. #5
    Supporting Member UnfocusedST's Avatar
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    Original thread can be found here.
    Aftermarket gauge install.

    I have decided to replace my factory dash gauge pod. The gauges I am using are Defi. There are plenty of gauge choices out there. Choose what soots you. I am also using the Defi visors and gauge pods that are mounted to the non ST dash speaker grill. These instructions will be more specific to this but will work with where ever you mount your gauges.



    So after you picked out your gauge/gauges and mounting spot it's time to run some wires and sensors. For my boost gauges I am using a symposer delete with a 1/8th nipple.



    Now for Defi I had to mount the sensors close as possible to the vacuum/boost source. Other want you to mount it in a dry location. For my oil pressure and temp sensors I uses a sandwich plate. This happens to be the prosport plate for the Mazda 3. Fits perfectly.



    To install the sandwich you have to remove the filter. You will lose a bit of oil. A full oil drain is not needed. Make sure to replace any spilled oil when you are done attaching the sandwich plate and reinstalling the filter.



    Now make sure to keep and wires and vacuum lines away from heat sources.



    To run the wires and vacuum lines inside the cabin there is a large grommet on the right side where the harness enters the car. It is large enough to poke a hole in so you can run the wires inside. Be careful not to damage the factory wire harness while doing this. Sorry no picture. I made my hole with a knife from the inside. To access the grommet this way you will need to remove the glove box. There are five torx head screws. One on the side. You will have to pop the side panel off for this screw. Open the glove box and pull firmly. It will pop right off.



    The first screw is at the lower portion of this area. This will all low you to pull the plastic away from the locking tab.



    The next two are in the top inside lip of the glove box.




    The last two are the most difficult to find. I had to feel around for them on the bottom. First remove the felt kick shield from the under side. There are two pull nuts that hold this up.



    Here are the two screws. I also took a picture of the bottom of the glove box to help people find them.





    There is a metal clip attached to the inside of the glove box. You have to give it a good tug to remove it. I did happen to loose my clip. To be careful.

    Once you have run wire to the inside run them to your gauges. Now it's time for running power, memory wires. I don't have a location for the illumination wire. For my gauges if I attach power to the illumination wire they dim. So I have left it detached.

    I have decided to use fuse taps since they are super simple to use. Splice the wire from your gauge to the wire on the tap. Now find the fuse you want to use.



    The far right fuse tap will be your ignition on power. The lower left will be the memory power wire. The top fuse tap is what I was using for my gauges to dim them. I don't remember if this fuse is always on or not.

    Next you want a good ground. I found this bolt makes a very nice one and is easy to access.



    In the case of the Defi gauges the power cord can be wired up then attached to the gauges. Once you are finished wiring your sensors and power, ground, etc it's time to button everything up.









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    Last edited by UnfocusedST; 12-14-2016 at 09:16 AM.
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  7. #6
    Supporting Member UnfocusedST's Avatar
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    Original thread can be found here.
    Why did I install 2 catch cans.

    So I have two catch cans install. The first one I installed was the JLT can. This was super easy. I like the placement.





    Now as alot of you have noticed these catch cans between the valve cover and intake does catch alot. That's because not alot passes through there. This is how much oily gunk the can caught in 5K miles. Now remember you don't want this going into the compressor side of your turbo gunking everything up.



    So with that one install I wanted the main catch can. The one that goes between the pcv and intake manifold. I wanted the Kozmic can. However with my intercooler brackets it would not have fitted. Also due to the size of the can I wasn't sure where I was going to relocate it to. So I picked up the Moroso catch can. As many of you know it mounts in the same location as the JLT can. So I found it a new spot with the help of BozBrosPerformance.



    My Focus ST at the point of installing this can had just over 21K miles. So my valves are a bit gunked up.

    Cylinder 1



    The rest.




    So as you can see it was needed badly. Here is what behind the pcv plate looks like.



    Now before I was running the Moroso can I had the cp-e exhale kit with tial bov installed. I went to remove it and cap off the port because it was discharging oily residue. When I installed the can I reinstalled the cleaned up valve. Here is what my block off plate looked like.




    Not very pretty. Full of oily gunk. Also my cold side charge pipe had oil just pooled in the bottom. I did my best of cleaning it out without removing the pipe complete. I did detach it from the intercooler coupler.

    Nasty paper towel.


    So for those who are on the edge of getting a can or to those nay sayers. I say get one. It helps alot.

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  8. #7
    Supporting Member UnfocusedST's Avatar
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    Original thread can be found here.
    Boomba Racing shifter bushings review

    Well I received my Boomba Racing hat.


    I would like to state the hat is very comfortable, especially with my bald head. Oh you want to hear about the Boomba Racing shifter bushings? Well I suppose.

    Now previously I have been using the JBR bushings. These are good bushings, however the washer used as a top plate can bend if you tighten the bolts down to much. The Boomba bushing are machined aluminum top and bottom. This prevents bending and give a more solid mounting point. Now the install only took me 50 minutes. This has been the third time I have removed the center console. For someone who hasn't done this it should take about 1.5 hours. Here are few comparison picture between the stock, JBR and Boomba Racing bushings.

    Left to right, stock, JBR, Boomba Racing.





    Stock vs Boomba Racing


    JBR vs Boomba Racing


    Now back to the install. Boomba's directions are much better than JBR for one very good reason. Unlike the JBR direction that have you detach the plugs for the USB, memory card, and Auto video hooks ups from under their locations, Boomba has you detach the main harness connection in the passanger side foot well on the side of the center console. This make it much easier to removed the console. Here a some pictures of the boomba bushings fully installed.





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  9. #8
    Supporting Member UnfocusedST's Avatar
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    As the proud owner of a 2013 Ford Focus ST I was also the recipient of the 1-2 bang. I had my original mounts swapped by Ford as part of the TSB. Well this helped but did not get rid of the problem. So I took matters into my own hands. Say hello to the Boomba rear motor mount. This piece is very well made and has been on my car for 2 years or so now. The hardest part of the mount install was attaching the downpipe bracket again. This is much easier if you leave the bolts for the bracket undone until you pop it back in place. With the mount in place the engine no longer has the hard shift bang. I do get vibrations at idle and more noticeably with the A/C on. Other that that it has been a great mount.





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  10. #9
    Supporting Member UnfocusedST's Avatar
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    So one thing I love to do with my car is Auto X. Enjoy some. Pictures and videos.








    And my favorite picture.


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  11. #10
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