Could I 3D print a Pedal Spacer? - Page 3
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Thread: Could I 3D print a Pedal Spacer?

  1. #21
    FST Member JJ91284's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luvshok View Post
    @JJ91284 So Don't use my pedal spacer?
    Since it's already printed, you could use it and if you decided to make revisions later then print with PETG at a minimum or consider printing with polycarbonate. The good thing is at least the spacer isn't getting direct sunlight and isn't by a window and is lower in the car so all these factors help. You may be ok but in the future or if it's not much trouble print again with PETG. For a pedal spacer or anything that requires some strength, print at a minimum of 40% infill. Around 80% infill for some materials you'll actually have maximum strength. This is or course dependent heavily on brand of material and composition.

    Look at there PLA chart with percentage infill. Remember this is brand specific to some extent and the material as well.

    What is the influence of infill %, layer height and infill pattern on my 3D prints? ? 3D Matter

    I had 4 roles of petg remnants that I printed this spitfire this past week. Waiting on some electronics and hinges to put the rest of it together.

    image hosting site

  2. #22
    FST Member redass's Avatar
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    Nice print, petg looks and breaks like ribbon candy. Pla melts like wax. ABS is far superior it warps on a hobby grade printer because the build envelops aren't heated on those printers. We started with a og wood makerbot at work years ago. We enclosed the build envelope and used 230c nozzle 120c bed and printed without a raft, using hair spray to get the part to stick to the bed. I had it down to a science. We have 2 uprint se's now the major difference is that the entire build envelope sits at 120c

  3. #23
    FST Member JJ91284's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redass View Post
    Nice print, petg looks and breaks like ribbon candy. Pla melts like wax. ABS is far superior it warps on a hobby grade printer because the build envelops aren't heated on those printers. We started with a og wood makerbot at work years ago. We enclosed the build envelope and used 230c nozzle 120c bed and printed without a raft, using hair spray to get the part to stick to the bed. I had it down to a science. We have 2 uprint se's now the major difference is that the entire build envelope sits at 120c
    I'm not sure how much experience you've had with PETG but it provides some flex before it cracks or snaps and is pretty similar to abs. I don't like abs because of all the nano particles and the noxious smell it produces. PETG and PLA aren't near as bad so unless you have some good ventilation and filters I'd avoid ABS all together as it really doesn't provide any real benefit over PETG. If I wanted more strength and higher melting point I'd just with polycarbonate.

    The Uprint Se+ are nice machines and would definitely be an optimal setup for preventing abs warping with the heated bed chamber.

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    FST Member redass's Avatar
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    I believe the # of factory produced ABS parts in our car vs. PETG speaks to the benefits. I'm sure petg would make a fine spacer though

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    FST Member LuckyWelds's Avatar
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    If anyone comes across an already drawn up print for 3D printing one, I'd definitely be interested.

 

 
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